IN the following description of the ancient landmarks of Hingham and Cohasset, it will be understood that the term includes bell[ natural objects which have been adopted its boards from the earliest settlement of the country, Such 18 hills, rocks, waters, etc., and those artificial creations which come in time to be recognized its landmarks, as roads, bridges, milldam, and certain building.
The sources of the information from which the facts in this chapter are derived are largely traditional, although old deeds have furnished much material,
It would be improper and ungracious for the writer to omit the expression of his acknowledgements to those who have aided in his researches ; and he takes great pleasure in owning his indebtedness to that interesting and valuable work, the " History of Hingham." by the late Hon. Solomon Lincoln, as well as to the "Centennial Address" and unpublished historical notes of the same gentleman.
At Hingham and Cohasset, on the South shore of Massachusetts Bay, the
most delightful month of the year is October. The heats and drought of
summer are past, the blustering rain storms of September have gone, leaving
its their legacy a renewed
greenness and freshness to the hillsides. The forests spreading
far and wide, glow with the exquisite brilliancy of the American autumn,
and the ocean stretches in blue length along fit(! shores .,tied up into
the little buys, its ripples plashing as lazily as if they would never
rise into great green waves that in December will shatter themselves in
foam and spray on the mighty ledges of Cohasset. The very winds seem to
sleep in their hammock of gauzy that hangs, thin and graceful, over sea
and shore.
Nature is taking a siesta, in restful preparation for her grim struggle with winter's tempests, fierce and furious as they the on this coast.
I invite you to spend a few Of seeking out the ancient landmarks of this old puritan town of Hingham (including Cohasset, which until 1770 formed a part of it); and to do this most thoroughly and enjoyably a tramp will be necessary, although at times it will Do agreeable to Lake to the saddle; and a boat will twice or thrice be indispensable, especially at the outset. For we will start, if you please, at the extreme easterly point, and take some of the ledges which lie off shore. Many of these are Dearer ' to Scituate Beach, but the rest, including the most noted of all, Minot's, are opposite Cohasset harbor and beaches.
MINOT'S LEDGE is the outermost of those awful rocks, upon which many a ship has met her doom ; and unnumbered men, ay, and women and children too, have vanished in the foam of those breakers which lash the ledges unceasingly when the east wind vexes the sea.
But on this hazy morning the ocean is calm enough. Only a ground swell, smooth as glass, rolls languidly in, and we can lie off the grim Minot's Ledge and examine the proportions of the great granite tower at our ease. This tower was built by the government to take the place of the wooden lighthouse, elevatedon iron posts ' that was washed away, together with its keepers,
Leaving, Minot's outer and inner ledges, we come to ail archipelago of rocks, many of which are submerged at high water. The principal ones between Minot's and the Cohasset shore are, the FAST and WEST HOGSHEAD ROCKS, the EAST and WEST SHAG, the GRAMPUSES, ENOS LEDGE, BRUSH LEDGE, BARREL ROCK, SHEPPARD's LEDGE, GULL LEDGE, SUTTON ROCKS and QUAMINO ROCK.
At the westerly entrance to Cohasset harbor is a. high, wooded, rocky promontory called WHITEHEAD. During the last war with England earthworks were erected there and garrisoned. In June, 1814, a British man-of-war came to destroy the shipping at Cohasset, but the commander, upon reconnoitring these fortifications, deemed them too strong to be attacked, and withdrew. Oil the west side of the harbor is GULF ISLAND, and South of it SUPPER, or SUPER, ISLAND. We leave "the Glades " (in Scituate) on our left in entering Cohasset harbor. On the south side of the harbor, and close on the main land, is DOANE'S ISLAND, now GOVERNMENT ISLAND. Here for several Years the work of cutting and shaping the rock sections to be used in building Minot's Lighthouse was carried on.
BARSON'S BEACH, northeast of Doane's Island, extends to Scituate Beach In the palmy days of the fisheries on this shore there were several acres of flakes there, and fishing-vessels were fitted out at this spot. Several Cohasset vessels, loaded with fish here, were captured in the Mediterranean during the Bonapartist wars, and many Cohasset people are to this day among those interested in the French spoliation claims.
Let us land at the head of the harbor, and take the road, skirting the shore, Border Street. A little stream called JAMES'S RIVER, which flows through the town, Crossing South Main Street not far from the depot, empties into the cove.
The OLD SHIPYARD was on Border Street. This road passes between the water and high elevationson the inner side, called DEACON KENT'S ROCKS,from which is an extremely fine prospect. The body of water between Doane's Island and the main land is THE GULP or THE GULP STREAM. The entrance from the liar her is narrow and jagged, and the rushing tide, foaming and seething in resistless volume in its ebb and flow, is a picturesque and beautiful Sight. A bridge crosses the Stream, and just below, where there was formerly a rocky dam, stood the old GULP MILL, which is now a thing of the past. A new mill, however, stands near the site of the old one.
CONOHASSET RIVER, or BOUND BROOK (CONOHASSET RIVULET Of Hutchinson's History), flows into the harbor on the south side, emptying through the Gulf. Anciently it formed the boundary line between Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay Colonies.
Retracing our way, we will take Elm Street (the SHIP-COVE LANE Of early days), pass around the head of COHASSET HARBOR, which narrows into a pretty little landlocked bit of water at this point, and take the road which follows the shore as nearly as possible over the isthmus between the harbor and Little Harbor, the narrowest portion of which is known is GREAT NECK. After going a few score rods in a direction generally northeasterly, the road turns sharply to the north. At this point, extending down the harbor, and in fact forming, its northerly shore for Some distance, is DEACON BOURNE'S ISLAND, now the site of a fine private estate, the property, of a distinguished actor. These "islands," in the nomenclature of our ancestors, were frequently pieces of land divided from the mainland only by a narrow creek or waterway but a foot or two in width, or even high lands in swamps oron beaches.
Beyond the little inlet and marshes north of this island, is HOMINY POINT, a beautifully wooded locality extending out along the water. There were formerly wharves at Hominy Point. The road strikes across through thick woods and a very picturesque country, coming near the water again at SANDY COVE, a slight indentation north of the promontory previously mentioned, and finally turning west, ursues its winding way through thickets gorgeous with the red and yellow of sumacs and the scarlet of maples and woodbine, by rocky precipices dark with lichens, coming upon delightful vistas of wood-bordered meadows and lovely bits of water-views which break in here and there Unexpectedly, until it suddenly enters Cohasset villago it THE PLAIN.
THE PUNCH BOWL, a singular depression about one hundred feet in diameter
and twenty-five feet in depth, with tipple trees now growing in it, is
on the north side of Tower's Lane, a short distance from the corner. Tim
DEVIL'S, ARMCHAIR, composed of slight depressions in the granite, probably
of glacial origin, is a
160 History of Hingham
it, find as romantic a spot for the fine seaside resides ..........
Onthe 18th of September, 1635, Air. Hobart and twenty-nine others drew for houselots, and received grants of posture and tillage lands. This year specific grants of land ivere made to upwqrds of fifty persons, and this method was followed for nially years ; but as the colony increased in size, and the people. Spread along the shore, it was deemed advisable by the proprietors to survey and lay out the unappropriated portions of the township, to be divided among the to the number of acres which they had in their houselots.
This led to the establishment of numerous landmarks, many of which are recognized ill) to the present time, and their names, often very quaint, will be handed down to posterity long after their significance is forgotten.
It may he of interest to state here that the houselots drawn for on the 18th of September, 1635, were Open Town, now North street. This year, also tile settlements extended to Broad Cove, now Lincoln Street. 111 1636 houselots were granted upon the other part of Town Street, since re-named South Street, and on the northerly part of "Bachelor's Rowe," now -Main Street.
The first giants of land in Cohasset (variously called " Conohisget," " Conihast , " " Comessett,") were mentioned in the Hingham town records in 1647. The first settlements are said to have been at Rocky Nook and on the Jerusalem Road.
All these specific grants of land were for many years from territory yet belonging properly to the Indians; but on the 4th of July, 1665, a deed of all the tract of land now comprising the towns of Hingham and Cohasset, together with "three score acres of Salt marsh"on the Scituate side of the river, which divides Hingham from Scituate, was obtained from the chiefs Wompatuck, Squmick, and Ahahden, sells of the great sachem Chickatabut, who livedon the banks of Neponset river, and who probably permitted the first settlers to locate at Hingham, which was in his realm. He ruled over the principal portion of the territory now comprised in Plymouth and Norfolk counties.
The System of surveying and allotting certain districts led to their being designated by the general name of "divisions;" as "First Division," "Second Division," etc. There were six of these divisions made. The first, second, and third were in 1670.
The FIRST DIVISION entirely in Cohasset, starts at the "Patent Line," which runs from BOUND ROCK, On the milldam, across BOUND BROOK in a straight line southwest by west, five miles eighty roils. The coast line of the First Division follows the course of Round Brook northward to tile harbor, then strikes into MEETING-HOUSE ROAD (now South -Main Street), crosses Great Neck, extends alonng this road to Deer Hill Lane opposite the southwest side of Little Harbor, then runs alng this lane southwesterly to King Street, thence follows it line through the centre of Scituate Pond southeasterly to the patent line.
The base line of the easterly part, of the SECOND DIVISION is the northwest boundary of the First Division (Deer Hill Lane).on the southeast, file line starts at the corner of the First Division on Little Harbor, and follows the westerly side of the Ridge Road, skirts Peck's Meadow on the, west, returns to the Ridge Road and runs to Walnut Angle (westerly end of Pleasant Beach) on the shore, which it follows to Strait's Pond, thence in a general south- westerly direction to "Breadencheese Tree," and from there south easterly over Lambert's Lane and King Street to the northwest corner of the First Division on King Street.
Supper Island and Gulf Island in the harbor, the promontory, east of Great Neck, and Beach Island, and the other so-called "islands" and high lands along the beaches east and north of Little Harbor, are also in this portion of the Second Division.
The westerly part of the Second Division lies on the west side of Lambert's Lane and King Street. The easterly boundary stretches from " Breadencheese Tree" to Scituate Pond, along the west side of the east part of the Second Division, and of the First on King Street. The northwesterly boundary line runs from " Breadencheese Tree" irregularly southwest, passing around and excluding Smith's Island to a cart path running southeasterly, which it follows to a point where it turns and runs easterly to the First Division line, north of Scituate Pond.
The Second Division is entirely in Cohasset
The THIRD DIVISION is partly in Cohasset, but mostly in Hingham, the northwesterly boundary starting at the northwest angle of the Second Division and running rather irregularly southwest till it strikes the patent line not far from Prospect Hill. The southwesterly boundary starts at the southwest, corner of the Second Division and runs to tile patent line in a direction generally parallel to the northwesterly boundary line.
The SECOND PART OF THE THIRD DIVISION is partly in Hingham mostly in Cohasset, and lies South of the Third Division and the westerly portion of the Second, between them and the patent, line, and west of the First. It includes about half of Scituate Pond.
The FOURTH DIVISION was made of the tract lying along the extreme southwest boundary of Hingbainon the Weymouth border.
The FIFTH and SIXTH DIVISIONS were of detached portions of lands remaining from the former divisions (excluding, specific grants). Nutty Hill was included in the Fifth, and certain of the westerly and northerly meadow lands in both the Fifth all([ Sixth.
The Fourth, Fifth, and Sixth Divisions of lands were made a few years previous to the middle of the eighteenth century.
We will return over South Main Street, passing, just before we reach the road leading to the depot, the long old house, once CHRISTOPHER JAMES's TAVERN. A short distance further north,on THE PLAIN, stands the OLD CHURCH, erected in 1747, - the first MEETING-HOUSE having, been built here in 1718.
About an eighth of a mile further on, Winter Street runs southwest over DEER HILL. This street was the old DEER HILL LANE. Just beyond the corner of the lane with North Main Street, there begins, on the right, the renowned JERUSALEM ROAD, also called the RIDGE ROAD, or THE RIDGES It rates north for Rome distance [lton,, a high bank, or ridge, beneath which lies Little Harber on the east side. The scenery in this direction
The little inland bay exhibits all its variety of outline front this point, with its picturesque rocks, wooded headlands, and islands.
In -I field west of the road, and quite a distance front it, is a huge bowlder balanced, apparently, so delicately upon a point that it seems as if it could be easily dislodged from its position upon a ledge where it lies. This has long been known as TITTLING ROCK.
As wild a stretch of iron-bound shore as could be wished for are these cliffs. Woo to the ship that, escaping the awful ledges to the eastward, drives on here before -,I northeast, gale. The Jerusalem Road along their upper edge, but a few years since was a rough, picturesque way, bordered by stunted cedars "blown into " a peculiar shape of growth away from the slot III winds so to speak, that prevail from the north and northeast. Within the past twenty years wealth and fashion have taken possession of the lands on these hills and the elegant villas of summer residents are to be seen on every hand, while the roadway has been smoothed and "improved," little)- fences or elaborate stone- walls built, and the storm-shapen cedars, cut down or trimmed into artificial forms, thus in a measure destroying tile picturesque Character of the surrounding
The town of Cohasset should never have permitted the sea side of this road to be owned by private individuals, bill should have kept it as a public ocean park accessible to the people.
Near the point where the road takes at) its coarse to the west, there is, not far above the level of the breakers and down Onionthe rocks, a little basin of clear, cool water which babbles out from the precipitous, weather-beaten ledges, known as COLD SPRING.
Following the road along, ,I superb view presents itself. To the cast are 'Minot's Light and the Ledges. Beyond them -tied losing itself at the horizon, is the broad Atlantic. Here, in front, to the northward, is the blue expanse of Massachusetts, Bay, the north shore in the dim distance hanging upon file ~eq,o of vWOII like a cloud ; to the northwost, the great stretch of sand, knoc,31 as Nantasket Lou,,, Beach, Point Allerfoll at its extreme end, and Boston Light beyond on the Omer Brewster.
After descending a hill we come to the BLACK-ROCK I lOVI', on a slight rise, close beside the sea, whose waNes drench it ~vitll spray in great gales.
The picture spread out before one alme, this iood in Nvintry storms
is Magnificent, I)ITSential as it dOOs the Wild "randOur of the conflict
between the seas, driven before the gale, and the shibborn granite lines
of these milghtY le(I"'0g.
Just off GREENHILL ];EACH, Which is tit 111V end Of CollaSset
166 History of Hingham.
Rocks, lies BLACK ROCK, a long, jagged, wave-worn mass, a few hundred feet on shore. At the west end of this beach (a pebbly isthmus joining Cohasset to Greenhill in the precincts of Hall) begins STRAIT'S POND, a beautiful sheet of salt water lying along the westerly part of Jerusalem Road, and between it and the beaches of Hull north of it. After passing through a rocky gorge bordered by misshapen savins we come upon a low, long, ancient, one-story house on the left of the road, which is one of the oldest buildings in Cohasset. It belonged to a branch of the LinCola family, and was built in 1709, having been originally constructedon Greenhill, in Hall, and moved across the ice of Strait's Pond in winter. the roadway formerly lay on the south side Of it.
As the neighborhood is being rapidly overrun by fashion, which cares nothing for old landmarks, tills house will probably disappear very soon, to make way for modern 11 improvements."
In the next hollow RATTLESNAKE RUN, on its way from Great Swamp, crosses under the road to empty into Strait's Pond. In the pretty canal, flowing among trees and shrubs in the private groundson the south side of the road, one would fall to recognize the old run as it was before its metamorphosis.
Beyond this point the road heads round a steep, rocky ledge on the south side. This is JOY'S ROCKS, and the bend was the old JOY'S CORNER, - an angle of the Second Division.
FOLSOM'S ISLAND (Originally JONES ISLAND) is in Strait's Pond, near Nantasket Neck.
The Jerusalem Road continues along the border of Stralt's Pond until it ends at Hull Street, on file Hingham line.
Turning to the left, Hull Street (which here divides Hingham from Cohasset; the east side being Cohasset; the west Bingham) leads ill a generally southerly direction, crossing Turkey-Hill Run at the foot of the first slight rise. Nearly half a mile further on, after going up a hill and winding Somewhat to the left, LAMBERT'S LANE, or BREADENCHEEESE TREE LANE, is found opposite Canterbury Street, in Hingham, and leading in all easterly direction into Cohasset woodlands. It soon crosses Turkey-Hill Run, and at the Spot where it intersects the western boundary line of the Second Division, stood, in 1670, the celebrated BREADENCHEESE TREE. The surveyors, who laid out the First, Second, and Third Divisions at that time, were evidently of a waggish turn of mind, and chose to name certain points or angles from which the "took their bearings" according to the composition of the lunch which they had for the day. Thus the northeasterly angle of the First Division they named I'm CORNER.
When they arrived under a certain large tree, they sat down and ate their bread and cheese; and BREAD-AND-CHEESE TREE or BREADENCHEESE TREE, became a landmark from that hour on, through these last two centuries and more.
The Maypole was a tree at all angle a Short distance southwest of Breadencheese Tree, on the line of the Second Division, SMITH'S ISLAND was on this line further to the southwest.
A half-mile or so from Turkey Hill Run, the lane crosses RATTLESNAKE RUN, Which, starting ill Purgatory Swamp, we encountered upon Jerusalem Road, where it empties into Strait's Pond. Lambert's Lane, running through thick woods almost all the way, passes over BREADENCHEESE TREE PLAIN; and here was HUMPHREY'S, or, as commonly called in the old (lays, AT HUMPHREY'S.
Lambert's Lane eventually emerges at the modern Forest Avenue, and at this point there was ill the early part of the century a dairy farm belonging to General Lincoln. Nearly all of these tillage and pasture lands of earlier times are now overgrown by thick forest. WALNUT HILL is in this vicinity, PURGATORY SWAMP is northwest of Walnut Bill.
Passing south over Forest Avenue, we come soon to North Main Street, and turning into this, we almost immediately strike off diagonally to the right into Cedar Street, now a deserted way, but a beautifully winding, and wooded one, formerly the OLD COHASSET ROAD, over which, in early times, people journeyed from Hingham to Cohasset. It leads over hill and dale, bisects a Superb fancy farm at TURKEY MEADOWS and passing by a quiet little graveyard at a turn to the northward, comes outon Hull Street,
In order to reach most expeditiously the next locality which it is desirable to visit, it will be best, to proceed through Hull Street to East Street, Hingham and thence through this town by the way of the old Side- Hill road, over Turkey Hill (a most delightful ride, especially at this season), through Leavitt, Spring, Pleasant, and Union street-,, Until Beechwood Street is reached, ,which leads from Union Street to Cohasset. This street at first winds through beautiful and wild woodlands, largely composed of beeches, with many holly -trees here and there, their exquisite foliage reflecting the sunbeams and the bright scarlet berries forming a brilliant contrast to the rigid leaves plished green
Here is the part of Cohasset called or in old deeds TOE BEECHES, deriving the name from the trees which form so large a part of the woods of this district STONY BROOK is the name of :1 little stream which crosses Beechwood Street, flowing through a pretty meadow bordered by trees qad bright with wild flowers in their season, near the village called PRATT'S CORNER.
Hard by is BARN HILL made almoston island 1) this Stony Brook. The locality known as KINGO is Comprised in this neighborhood taking its name from a former inhabitant who lived near, in a stone house ill the woods.
A short distance further oil, Doane Street enters Beechwood Streeton
the north side. Doane Street is a continuation in Cohasset of Leavitt Street
in Hingham, which leads through Third Division woods.
168 History of Hingham.
On the north side of Beechwoord Street, and about a third of a mile cast of Doane Street, is RATTLESNAKE ROCK, Or RATTLESNAKE DEN, formerly a haunt of there reptiles, although they are undoubtedly extinct there now.
SOUTHER'S HILL is a short distance east of Doane Street, and JOY'S H ILL, Or CAPTAIN PRATT'S HILL, is On the south side of Beechwood Street. There is a fine view from this hill. About a mile cast of Doane Street,on the north side of Beechwood Street is a great ledge, having a large bowIder on it, which is called MOUNT PISGAH. TURTLE ISLAND is near Beechwood Street where it crosses a branch of Bound Brook. the old IRON WORKS stood here.
PRATT's ROCKS form a ledge near the road, nearly two miles from Doane Street. On the south side of Beechwood Street, near Kill" Street, is WIDOW's ROCK, which is shaped like a haystack. The property about this rook was once sold for exactly one thousand dollars. When the deed come to be passed, and payment made, the buyer offered the seller a one-thousand-dollar bill, which was contemptuously refused. " What," cried the seller, "I sell my land for one little bit of paper like that! No sir! I will have a good pile of bills for it." And the buyer had to give him a sufficient quantity of small bills to the amount of $1000 to make the transaction look " big to him. A short distance cast of Widow's Rock is GOVERNOR'S HILL. The name has no special significance in this connection, however.
We will turn northwest into King Street and proceed along this ancient road, the original boundary of the First and Third Divisions, and the dividing line which separates the Second into two parts. It is a hilly and pleasantly wooded Toad in places, and borders SCITUATE POND, also called 'KIAH TOWER'S POND, Of late years sometimes LILY POND. It was named Scituate Pond INN, the first settlers because it wason the road to Scituate; and 'Kiah Tower's Pond afterwards because land about it was owned by a Mr. Hezekiah Tower. This land, or a portion of it is still held by his descendants. By the latter name the pond is known in the country adjacent. It is a very beautiful sheet of water, its banks being composed of both high and low hinds, and heavy woods, always such an indispensable adjunct of fine scenery, covering a large proportion of its shores.
How exquisite it is now, in the quiet afternoon sunlight, its unruffled waters reflecting a white feathery cloud lazily drifting across the deep blue sky, and the scarlet and yellow forest.% about it contrasting so brilliantly with those rich, deep-green, pine woodlands!
That great rounded gray ledge rising Out Of its bosom PONDROCK, has looked the same to every race of men which has dwelt about these shores or fished in their waters, since the melting away of the great glacier first let in upon it, as it is now, the light of day. It echoed the war-whoop of the red man when he first shrieked it in the forests of the hills around, and gave back its latest faint, reverberation when it, despairingly died away for the last time on the western wind its lichen clad granite, slopes back .1 quick response to the sharp crack of the pale-faced pioneer's firelock, when it imperiously announced to those solitudes that the reign of the wolf and the Algonquin must give place to that of the Anglo-Saxon. In. The dawn will touch the Old rock with its earliest rosy beam and the last ray of sunset linger upon it in yellow light, when that Anglo-Saxon, with his mighty works, shall have vanished forever, and the history of his existence remain only as a myth.
After crossing the railroad, King, Street (,ads at North Main street. This road winds pleasantly through the beautiful Cohasset woods and crosses the northern portion Of GREAT SWAMP which extends far to file southward, covering a large tract Of country . North Main Street enters Hingham as East Street, at the Homesteads.
Now turning, about, we will ride eastward again, mid strike into King Street. Upon reaching Winter Street we will turn Off to the cast over this road, which is the old DEER HILL LANE. It crosses DEER HILL, a smooth, rather high hill, and comes out on North Main Street, nearly opposite the cemetary.
Southeast of Deer Hill, is BARE HILL BEAR HILL now called JOINER'S HILL. where the Water reservoir is
A huge and steel) ledge lying opposite the westerly end of Summer Street
is known qs SUNSET ROCK
170 History of. Hingham
But the fair October sunset itself has failed into twilight, leaving a beautiful afterglow that promises another fine day for tomorrow. If the promise is fulfilled, we will start ill the early to visit the Hingham landmarks.
morning
A morning like that of yesterday, "so cool, so calm, so bright," ushers in a second perfect autumn day, of -ill times in the year the finest for moddes in the saddle. Let us take tip our subject this morning at the point where three townships meet.
The Jerusalem Road ends at the Hingham line, where the towns of Cohasset, Hingham, and Hull form a junction. To the right, northerly, lies Nantasket Beach, about half a mile distant. A few rods to the north, the road to the beach crosses the old MILL LANE IlRfDGE, which separates Sti ait's pond from the little estuary called LYFORD'S LIKING, or Weir River. This, however, is not the river itself, but merely ail extension of the bay into which Weir river empties. The origin of this quaint name, A~?forXs Likiitti, is buried in obscurity. In 1642, however, in Suffolk Deeds, Vol. I., the munei; of ' Ruth Leyford, John Leyford her father, ill(] l4ordecay Leyford her brother, appear; and in 1649 -in old deed speaks of 'If oure Acres meadow, more or less, at Laiford's Likeing."
The road coming from the south, on the, left hand, Halt Street, divides Hinghamfrom Cohasset, and winds through the rocky villaec known as TOGNIANUG, an old Indian name of the locality until within thirty-odd years, this was the only road from Hingham to Nautisket, Beach.
Rockland Street runs west along the marshes for nearly a mile, skirting a. range of higher and rocky table land lying to the south, which hI known as CANTERBURY. It was probably included in a grant to Cornelius Canterbury, who settled in Hingham. before 1649.
In the ditch by the side of this street, where it runs through the suit marsh, are the stumps of gigantic trees, which were dug out of the, roqdway here when the street was made, about the year 1855. Those trees wore unquestionably members of a forest which lived and flourished here untold ages ago. The ImalFA wbere it existed were probably low, and near the then coast line; and through some graduat subsidence of the land, or sudden convulsion of nature, there was a breaking, in of the sea, with consequent destruction of the forest. All through the period of %ulonergence of this locality those stumps were preserved, being under salt water, and now, perhaps a thousand years after the catastrophe that ended ibeir lives, the relies of the trunks of these old trees are ivioulderiin, to decliv in the rays of the same sunshine tbat caused their buds to break into leafy beauty in the last
North of Rockland Street, just before it reaches the rishw ground, and perhaps a quarter of a mile Or so out Over tl)~B Marshes, "Poll Lyford's Liking, is BARNES51', ISLAND, formerly SPRAOUP'S ISLAM). From the road it has the appearance of a slight rise, well wooded.
A short distance further west the road cross(,s Wrin RivrR, here a pretty stream about to empti, into 11rEliz R(rjjR BAY, a quarter of a mile northward. Tide v~ator comes ill) bel oud file bridge at this point, to the falls at the dain a fell, s~ore rods south, where TuOMAS'S I'OND is, Rad where Tuom,ks's Folixony stood until within a few years.
Along the river bankon the east side, for some distanco, is a range of high rocky eliffs, beautifully wooded, and verl piclur be bitle esque. Down from this sa%in-olotliod height comes t
WOODCOCK'S ltu,,I, or LY~,ojti)',.,, LIKING RUN, a small brook haidly distinguishable in the dr , v months.
There %,as ill carly titues across Weir River, not far froul the bridge now spannhw it, at Rockland street, a log, opon whiell people could cross the stream, mn] also a )andin',, where thuber and firewood were loaded upon Nessels bound for Boston and elsewhere. This place was called THE Lo(;, or AT THE Lo(;. L(O LANE led to this spot, from Weir River Lane.
Down the river about a quarter of a mile, :Old at the Point where it broadens into ft wide estuary, thore was, nearly a evil tury since, a woollen mill, owned by and carried on in the interest of General Benjamin Lincoln, who seenis to have been interested in many enterprises. There was afterwards a flour mill hero,and the place was subsequentl ' N , occupied by the sniall-pox hospital. TuR LmE KILN was near by, and the Beck of land opposite, situated between (lie river ,Old the cove which makes tip on the west side of this neck, is terminated bV BARS POINT.
Crossing Weir River 1) ' v the Rockfand Street bridge, we are upon higher ground, included in PLAIN MCK, NVIliCh COMPrObendS all the CouTittv south and nes"t of this bridge (as well as northward as fill- a; Cushirn's Nock), which can be comprised ill I lie
terl-itory bovderedon the cast and south by Weir River , :Old upon the west by the harbor, and probably exteiiding n.,; far as C11,9111 berlain's Ran. The limits are indefinite, but old deeds show that they are about as described.
A short distance west of the river Rockland Street passes through a thickly wooded swamp, which Was for iiially ye"Irs,
Until 1855, TOF ~IERONRY. ROM WOM the Imilles of t'lle nil"Ilt berons, their nosts beial- visible in the woods on overv side. They were driven away wlion the road was laid out tlirough their haunts.
NEcK OATF fIlLL ' now OLn COLONY TIILL, at the junction Of Rockland Street, Sounuor Street, :Old Martin's Lane, is a plons antly located bill ' boving fine w4)(djqjlds ;Old beautiful e(noll- , v
about it. The view from the sluninit in ('very diroction is chnnol
1-12 History of Hingham
ing. For many years the OLD COLONY HOUSE, a favorite summer resort stood here. It was built ill 1882, and burned in 1872.
But now before goingon to Hingham harbor, lot us turn down MARTIN'S LANE, to (lie right, and northward. This is a narrow road, formerly having the NECK CATE across it, at the hill. It slopes gradually downward, quit is bordered by trees, with masses of tangled woodlands upon the right, now exquisite in the glory of autumn Wild hidden ravines, picturesque rocky precipices, clothed with vines, ferns, mid savins, are upon the east side. The trouble of searching them out, will be well repaid in learning what sccenery generally thought peculiar to mountain districts is here under our very eyes, but almost unknown.
On the west, the land lies ill beautifully rolling fields, dotted here and there with fine trees, down to the. water. The road finally winds over a slight rise, between shrubby woods and through a noble private estate till it reaches nearly a mile from Neck Gate Hill, NIAarIN'S WELL, formerly ABRAHAM"; WELL, the remains of which are still visible ill the field to the right, near by where the lane ends. There is a pretty cove, or indentation, at this point.
Abraham Martin was one of the early settlers who came with Rev. Peter Hobart in 1635. Ile owned land in this locality and built this well.
This land is embraced in the strip between the harbor and, Weir River to the eastward, called CUSHING'S NECK,-large tracts having been owned here early by a branch of that family, which has furnished, in peace and war, so many celebrated Americans. Hingham was the home of the family in America. Lands at Cushing's Neck are still in possession of one of the descendants.
The road which crosses the head of this cove goes over the heavy Stone dam (MARTIN'S WELL DAM) Which shuts Out the sea from the fertile meadows lying east of it. These formed one of the DAMDE MEDDOWES, So often referred to in old deeds. The cost end of these meadows is also dammed at Weir River Bay.
Passing through a gate, we come to PINE, HILL a little eminence overlooking the harbor, now a smooth, rounded hill, with a few trees upon its summit. North of this is the fine PLANTER'S HILL, also smooth and oval in outline, like. all the Hingbain hills. There is a noble view from its top, extending, all around the horizon, - of the, Blue Hills; of Milton, in the far distance, the town lying close by, Third Division woods southward, the harbor to the west, quit broad ocean to the north and East beyond Nantasket Beach.
At the foot of the northerly slope of Planter's Hill is a short, low isthmus a few rods in length, and very narrow at high tide, -WORLD'S END BAR A generation ago the fox hunters used to beat the country at South Hingbain and drive the game northward through the woods and fields of the township till it arrived at the peninsula bounded by Weir River and the harbor. After
There is a curiously stunted elm-five growin I on the ~eiy top of Planter's Hill. It is cvid~,jltly dwarled by hav*ill~ 11roNVII up wed1ged among large rocks. It is of great age, enily jccoriN referring, to it soon after the sipttleineut of like colultry~ -Old appm., ently has not increased in size during the two past centuries. It is, indeed, an " ancient landmark."
The doubly rounded caninenoo north of this bar is Wonm)'6 END, a peninsula surrounded by water on all Sides excepting where this bar connects it with I'lanter's Hill. The harbor is o)'I the west, Weir River Bay upon the east side
Following the shore of Weir River Bay, we conic to a till](, cove upon the east side of Planter's ]till, and then :in exireniell, picturesque locality, havinx high rocks and precipices nlong its water front, and groat ledges croppiro, out all over it. This 16 known as ROCKY NEcK.
Up the little buy, to the eastward, lies Nantasket ])each and north of it, the pohit of land stretching out into the luirho'r, i6 White Head. These localities are in Hull.
The rough and broken easterly shore line of Becky Neck finally crosses a little meadow and beach, and b0y(aul these i's 111 narrow passa ' go between great masses of crin,gy rocks, which are called LiNCOLN'S ROCKS. Through this passage conles the cut ]-cut of Weir River. Close here, too, is the "reat rock ill the water which has been known from early times Its TnE RrNGBOLT ROCK, from the huge iron ring let into its surface for the acconnuo dation of vessels haulingon the river. At " The Liniplifln," jit the upper part of Weir River Bay, there were, in old Oines, vessels built. The last one was the ship "Solferino," of about 800 tons, launched ill the year 1859, the largest vessel ever built in Hill"haul.
The water here is the westerly portion of the inlet which extends easterly to the dam at Strait's Pond, and which we met with there under the ancient naine of LN-ford's Likin,.
Let us go down the river again to Rocky Neck tOul cro." OLD PLANTER'S
FIELDS, Moll on tile 8011theflStOVIV slopes of PIanter's and Pine bills,
and ;n 'over the 11 Danule Ale'dilowes " to NIq 1-till's Lane, which we
will cross at the cove, and proceed along, thc shore skirting the
beautiful tract of country between Marlin's Lane and the harbor, called,
anciently, MANSFIELD'S, tO M,i-,-,~ FIELD'S COVE, a lifight indentation
at the head of the barbor, bounded on the west by a ledge making out into
the water, callcil BARNM'S RocKs, upon and over which the old steamboat
pier mid hanging wire bridge used to be. This ledge extends out
mider the channel, interfering with navigation at low water, Tb e United
States government has expended considerable sunis of
174 History of
Hingham.
money in not entirely successful attempts to remove it by sub~ marine blasting.
There were formerly SALT WORK§ cast of Mansfield's Cove,
A few rods farther on is HERSEY'S WHARF, at the present time as stanch a structure as it was when it was constructed. Upon. this wharf. and on the beach West of it, were built several fine ships, beside% numerous barks, brims, and schooner,%; for this Was HALL'S SHIPYARD. West of this wharf is the steamboat pier. Upon Summer Street on the hill just above Hersey's wharf, is a large white house it the south side of the road, now the mansion of it private estate. This was, in former times, one of the old inns, and was known as the WOMPATUCK HOUSE
After crossing another stone wharf, now disused, we find this beach extending along toward a line of wharves at THE CovE at the head of the harbor. The earliest settlers at the harbor called the place BARE COVE, front the fact that the receding tide leaves the flats bare; and by this name the settlement was designated and assessed, until later it received the name of Hingham,
Previous to the building of Summer Street, the only highway leading from the cove to the village lying between the disused
Wharf above referred to and Nock Gate Hill, Was along the upper edge of this beach ; people and teams going down into the dock below the Mill-dam at the Cove, at low tide, crossing the mill stream and passing along the beach on their way east. Summer Street here was constructed from material taken from WARD'S H ILL, a high knoll of sand and gravel rising south from the beach, now known its COBB'S BANK, which in early times extended several hundred feet to the eastward. It is fast disappearing under the demand for sand and gravel for filling purposes.
Along the water side north of Ward's Hill there were also vessels built.
The low land lying between Summer Street and the railroad track, and east of Ward's Hill, was formerly WAKELY'S MEADOW, Or BRIGADIER", MEADOW. Within a very few years this meadow was salt, tend the owner, wishing to reclaim it, caused it to be (trained into the harbor, the pipes passing under Summer Street. In digging beneath this street at the old sea-level, the contractor unearthed old piles and the stone retaining walls of wharves, thus proving, the early existence of landing places for vessels far within the limits where it is now possible for them to come.
The meadow belonged early to Thomas Wakely. It afterward,; was the property of Brigadier-General Theophilus Cushing, And received its later name in this connection. Thomas Wakely wag all early settler with Rev. Mr. Hobart, in 1635,
The high land south of Wakely's Meadow, beyond the railroad track, is PECK'S PASTURE. Robert and Joseph Peck came to this country in 1638.
Following the ancient water line from the harbor up through the mill- dam, we reach THE MILL-POND. Here stood the CoRN
The body Of water connected with the mill-pond through (lie Waterway which exists under the Junction of the railroad with Water Street, affords, east of this street when the full tide is in, some of the finest scenery, about Hingbain, taken in connection with the beautifully wooded uplandson the marshes called ANDREWS or SASSAFRAS ISLAND, and the high rocks and precipices jutting out from thick oak woods along the eastern bank. The brilliant colors of the foliage contrasting with the gray of the rocks, the blue of the water, and bright green of the meadows go to make tip a picture worthy the [)rush of all artist
These salt marshes, extending south to Pear Tree Hill, are
known as the HOME MEADOWS.
But to return to the mill-pond. This body of water lies between North and Water Streets and the maple-bordered and beautiful shades of the cemetery lying to the south. The railroad skirts its southern bank. The' mill-pond was anciently a little cove, and the Rev. Peter Hobart, with his band of settlers, landed near the head of this cove where now is the foot of Ship Street. Here the first religious services were held, near a magnificent elm, which, standing, in all its majesty up to a dozen or so ), cars ago, an ornament to the street and town, was barbarously cut down by the authorities on the wretched pretext that, it Was in the way of pedestrians on the sidewalk. At the time of its destruction two cannon balls were found imbedded among its roots, which were undoubtedly left there by the early settlers. These are now in the possession of a zealous antiquarian and local historian.
The TOWN BROOK empties into the western extremity of the mill- pond.
With the idea of following the harbor line from the mill-pond
north, we will avail ourselves of the ancient private way which runs along by the heads Of the old wharves, some of which are. yet used for the reception from a few coasters of such lumber and
coal as are required for use in the town ; sorne have, fallen into decay, and with the old rotting warehouses upon the landward side of this little way, are sad reminders of the maritimp glories of this once active locality. For Hingbain to Merly Sent, a hirge and well-appointed fishing fleet to sea. Along i'icr shorpq we hal-C visited sonle, and shall come across more of the ship ' yards wbere
numerous ships and smaller craft were built find lftunchcd, and the sea captains, sons of her stanch old families, sailed to all quarters of the world.
At the end of this old private wily, and where it connects u-ith Otis
Street, was formerly SOUTIIER'S, earlier BARKER'S, S11111YAno. Here, where
now are pretty seaside villas the keel of inany it line vessel was laid,
and the ~hingc of these'into their desthied clement was made in a direction
toward GoosE POINT, I small, low,
176 History of Hingham
marsh , v promontory, forming the northerly arm Of the little cove here (Ill the west side of this Cove was KEEN'S SHIPYARD. Following along Otis Street Over a salt meadow, we come to a few summer residences scattered along 1)), tire bay,, sonic being near tile former edge of the sand Cliff which was cut away when this rood was laid out. Here were, a generation ago, extensive SALT WORKS,, having their windmills upon the beach ; for, in earlier days large quantites of salt were required in packing mackerel taken by the fishing fleet and much of it was of home production. A few score rods further to the north, and we tire at BROAD COVE
an estuary extending in westward as far as Lincoln Street, all then northward Its much farther As )ill, plan is to follow tile, share we will proceed along the, southerly bank of this cove Tile, first locality of interest is ill the South side of ill(,, entrance, from file harbor, [lore stood MAJOR", WHARF and the warehouse ad joining iton the edge of the sand cliff, The writer remembers the old well which was at the foot of the cliff near or under where the building stood. At this wharf were rigged the Vessels which were built at the head of Broad Cove at Lincoln Street. The wharf and property in the vichlity belonged, in the bitter part, of the last Century, to Major Thaxter, of the old Provincial arnzy This goutlenian was all officer it) the reginiont raised in this vicinity which forini-d part of the garrison it Fort Williain I fenry, which sm rendered to Aloiltealin and his, Pi ouch and Indian forces aftcr a inotracted siege it I tile old French war. Ile came very nVal. f)eillg 0110 of the victims of the subsequent massacre, beiGg takon prisoner and tied to a tree 1) ' N, the Indians, who lighted a fire around him. A French officer rescued him, and he subse quent] ' v escalped or was exchanged.
the land lying south of this cove adjoining (and perhaps inChiding) the present, cainp-,"rounds belongiw-, to the First Corps of Cadotts Of the Massachusetts Volunteer Militia, was formerl.i known as JouN's Ntxw.
Upon the south bank of the Cove were, in carly days SALT IVORKs.
At the Lincoln Street end of Broad COVO, Was a SHIPYARD whole numerous vessels were built. An old bid. 'T in converliation with tho writer a few years since, spoke of having seen four Vessels at a time upon the stocks there in the early part of this century.
Broad Cove divides into two creeks which extend northward and westward for about :I quarter of ,I ruile. Over these creeks from Lincoln Street to Crow Point, ran Cnow POINT LANE, Cross in , g the Creeks by bridges. These were landmarks a century ago, the territory hereabouts being known as 11 AT YE BRIDGES. 11
PLANTEtt's FIELDS LANE led front Crow Point Lane to Planter's Fields.
From "Y Bridges" northwestward toward Weymouth River for a Polisiderable distance lay the SHii, LOTS.
The hill takes its name froin John Otis, all early settler with Rev. Peter llobart, in 1635, and who received it grant of land here. lie was the ancestor of the celebrated Otis family in America.
The view from Otis Hill, like that front all the higli hills of Hingham and Cohasset, is exquisite. ']'lie waters of the bay, and of flingliani harbor, Avith its picturesque islands, lie -It Olle's fe(A. To the northeast and east, is the deel) blue expanse of occan, Ileyond the long, narrow neck of Nantasket Beach, which Connects the penhunflar town of Ilull with the mainland. Beyond Windmill Point, Hall, the granite bastions Of Fort Warren reflect tile light in the aftcraition still. Ships and stearnerson their Course lend life to tire ocoan view. north shore melts to haze in the distance. ]stands dot the watea s of Boston Bay, the white towers of lighthouses surniountin., some of them. To the northwest looms the city, crowned with its golden dome. The Blue Ifills of Milton, the Mas-sa-chu- setts,
Daniel Webster greatly adinired Otis Ifill with its view, and often visited it on his way to Marshfield. It is said that lie half It great desire to buy it and make his home there, but foared that as it was so near the city lie could not hope for the seclusion which a more dis
BOYOnd WaltOll'S Cove is CROW POINT, a rounded hill extending like a calic into the harbor. It was file first anvivrit landinark si,dited by the early vxplorers who sailed into Hingbain Ifitri)(r, and probably the Qrst spot lauded upon.
Before leaving this vicilghborhood, it will be well to take a look at the islands. The tide h~ high, and it row about the bay will be a fine thing this bright fall aftei'llooll.
Taking a boat, then, at Crow Point, wo will poll oNor first to RAGGED
IRLAND, the %VC9terInIlOSt of the group 1611(11 tile shore. This island,
well-ranied, is a very picturesque ittass of
~,)T, ~ - 12
178 History of Hingham
rock, and the scarlet and yellow of the sumacs, and other wild shrubs, form a fiery contrast to the deep olive green of the savins here and there among the ledges. At half-tide, the rusty underwater coloring of the rocks of these islands, supplemented by the dark, yellowish-russet tints of the rockweed, which only grows submerged on the ledges, is very interesting in an artistic point, of view.
East of this lies SARAH'S SAILOR'S or SAYLES'S) ISLAND. This is also the summit of a great rocky ledge rising up from the water, and clothed with sumacs and other shrubs.
Towards the bead of the harbor, hardly a mile south, lies BUTTON ISLAND. This little heap of rock and gravel, hearing no trees nor shrubs and but little glass, is not worth visiting. But one other remains to be noticed, LANGLEE'S ISLAND (in early days IBROOK'S), Which is a beautiful spot. Steep ledges surround it, except for small intervals, where there are gravelly beaches, upon one of which stands a fine linden. Shrubs abound upon the uplands. It will be, in a few years, yet more beautiful than now, thanks to the enlightened taste of the gentleman who owns it. Ile has planted many small trees, which will eventually cover it with forest growth, as wits originally the case when the country was settled, and restore it to the condition in which all the islands of Boston harbor should be. Had they been kept so for the past two centuries, file forces of erosion would not have succeeded in practically sweeping some of them from the face of the earth, and destroying the content of all. Richard Ibrook, who probably owned this island very early, came in 1635.
As we low ashore again, those few light clouds in the west are taking upon themselves from the declining sunbeams colors yet more gorgeous than those of the fall foliage, and we have a fine opportunity of admiring one of those superb sunsets for which Hingbain harbor is justly celebrated. Glowing, as it does, over the waters of the bay and across the western hills, it presents a Splendor which no locality in the world can surpass.
Although twilight is short at this season, there is yet time for a ride around the Shore before Clio gleaming is upon as; and as we left our horses here, let us mount at once and follow the road around the north side of Crow Point, and then the beach along the foot of the fine hill next west of it, the bank of which is bordered by a heavy growth of Lindens, Canoe Birches (very rare hereabouts), and other trees. This is PLEASANT HILL. Beyond it are PLANTER's FIELDS, or PLANILS, and another of those DAMDE MEDDOWES Which our ancestors rescued from the inroads of the sea wherever they could do so to advantage. Between the southerly slopes of Crow Point and Pleasant Hill, and Walton's Cove on the south, is -it slight eminence called TUCKER'S or TucKER's HILL. John Tucker was an early settler, coming in 1635.
The beach west of Pleasant ILE is GARDNER'S or GARNETT'S (GARNER'S) BEACH.
During the siege of Boston by Washington, the English found themselves in sore straits for forage. Learning of some barns well filled with hay upon Grape Island, which lies off HUET'S Cove, the British commander ordered a foraging party to proceed in boats to the island and secure the supplies. The expedition, however, was discovered, and the militia of Hingbain and Vicinity were soon on the march down Lincoln Street to HUET'S Cove, it being feared that the enemy intended landing there. Finding, however, that their objective point was Grape, Island, a detachment was seat off which set the barns on tire before the English could land. Being disappointed in their object, the enemy returned to Boston without attempting a landing.
Among the fields at Huet's Cove is a small tract formerly known as PATIENCE'S GARDEN. Patience Pomctick, the last Indian squaw living in Hingbain, used to gather roots and herbs here, and sell them to the townspeople. ]a later days, and early in this century ail eccentric colored woman called "Black Patty " Used to visit Patience's Garden, and haunt the territory adjoining Huet's Cove. Upon one occasion Patty was collecting herbs there, when, happening to glance seaward, attracted by a peculiar and unaccustomed sound, the poor wretch's blood was frozen by what she saw. A dark, uncouth looking monster was rapidly approaching over the water, snorting black Smoke with a Spiteful sound, the waves of the bay forming, behind it, and sparks of fire mingling with the smoke which it belched forth. Patty waited to see no more, but rushed over the fields and into the first house that she could reach, screaming that the Fiend himself was close behind her. The monster which poor Patty lead taken for the Enemy of Souls was the first Hingham steamboat coming into the harbor Further up Weymouth River, all(] just before reaching the bridge over which the Hingham and Quincy turnpike ran, there is a high, partly wooded promontory which Until within [I Year or two belonged to the town, and is known as STODDARD'S (STODAR'S) NECK.
The old building nearest, the bridge, on the north Side of the road
was, in the days of the turnpike, the TOLL HOUSE From
180 History of Hingham
here a sharp ride over Lincoln Street will take as into the village about dusk. Until within twenty years this street only extended west a short distance beyond Crow-Point Lane, and file first sottiers who laid it out called it BROAD-COVE STREET, It runs along the northerly base of SQUIRREL HILL, near its junction with CrewPoint Lane. The view from this hill almost equals that front Otis Hill. At the foot of Squirrel Hill were formerly CLAY PITS, where there were brick kilns
The name of Broad-Cove, Street was changed to Lincoln Street in honor of Major-General Benjamin Lincoln, of the army of the Revolution. The GENERAL LINCOLN MANSION, On the corner of this ,Old North Streets, is still occupied by his descendants. A portion of it is upwards of two hundred and twenty years old.
About a dozen years since it became necessary to construct a sewer on Alain Street, to relieve the part of the road South of the Old Meetiing- House of surplus surface water. The line of this Sewer was laid out so as to run along in front of the hill upon which stands the Doi-by Academy; a part of which hill, as elsewhere stated, was cut down, and the roadway lowered to the present level. the rising ground thus removed was originally part of tile burial-hill, and Alain Street here passes over where the edge of the slope originally was.
Upon digging to build this Sewer several skeletons were unearthed, which were identified as those of the Acadian prisoners who died in Hingham; for a number of those unhappy exiles were sent here after their expatriation. Some of them lived for a time in it small one-story house which stoodon Broad-Cove Street,on land which is now the southeast corner of Lincoln Street and Burditt Avenue. In this house also were quartered, early in the Revolutionary War, Lieutenant Haswell and his young daughter, who was afterwards the celebrated Mrs. Rowson. Mr. Haswell was a British officer, and collector of the customs at Hull, for the King. He was for some time a prisoner-of-war in Hingham am] elsewhere.
OnLincoln Street, at the easterly Side of the road, and at the summit of the hill north of Fountain Square, stands a large, old fashioned house which was, sixty years Since, WILDER'S TAVERN, and yet earlier, HE ANDREWS TAVERN. There used to be a post in front of the porch, on which was a large golden ball.
Another crisp, bright October morning, --
Sion in old times SETH CUSHING'S INN. Going up North
At the last bend of North Street is it small hill, it spur of Baker's Hill, known as MARS BILL. One of the Oldest houses in Hingham stands upon it.
After turning into Beat Street, BAKER'S HILL rises on the right hand. It is one of the largest and highest hills in town, and there is it superb view from the toll. It derived its name from the residence, at its foot, of Nicholas Baker, who with his brother Nathaniel came with Rev. Peter Hobart in 1635.
Beal Street, formerly THE TURNPIKE between Hingham and Quincy, and the direct road to Boston until Lincoln Street was cut through, was in early times GOOLD'S (GOLD'S) LANE, and ran north until it reached the first hill. Then it divided into three blind lanes. One led westward to Great Lots ; one northwestward to 'the same locality ; and (110 Was SQUIRREL- HILL LANE, which runs from Beal Street, north of Baker's Hill, to Squirrel Hill. Edward Cold, from whom this lane took its name, was an early settler. lie ws known a as "the pailmaker."
A few rods from the junction of Beal with North Street, HOCKLEY LANE runs west from Beal Street to HOCKLEY. Where this lane begins is HOCKLEY CORNER ( another Hockley Corner is on Fort-Hill Street). Hockley is an extensive district, consisting of hundreds of acres of rolling country embracing fine. meadows, woodlands, and a beautiful water front on Weymouth Back River. It is one of the most attractive localities in Hingham. TUCKER'S SWAMP is situated north of Hockley Lane. In former days the cutting and drying of peat for fuel was quite an industry lit this place. There were about twenty-five buildings their standing in the vicinity, used for the strage of dried peat.
Near the foot of the lane is HOCKLEY RUN, Which empties into the river at BEAL'S COVE it a pretty indentation here TWO other small runs flow into the river nearby. The old crossing, known in early days as LONDON BRIDGE was not far distant.
The territory north, about Lincoln and Beal streets, including ALMSHOUSE and TOWN FARM, was formerly denominated GREAT LOTS. STOWELL'S HILL ison Weymouth River, near the Alms House.
Returning to Beal Street, and crossing fill, head of theswamp,
182 History of Hingham
over West Street, we turn to the right into Fort-Hill Street, which passes over FORT HILL, about a quarter of a mile farther southwest. The old name was NICHOLS'S HILL, until, ill the time of King Philip's War, a fort was built upon it for protection against Indian attacks and the name was changed to Fort Hill. When the top of the hill was cut off, the lines of the old fort were obliterated. Near the end of this street, and close to the Weymouth line, is FRESH RIVER, -,I little stream rising in Bare Swamp and emptying into Weymouth Back River. A small branch of this flows from the neighborhood of Natty Hill across Hobart Street. The bridge across Fresh River at Port-Bill Street is WEST BRIDGE. The one over iton French Street is FRENCH'S BRIDGE At the corner of Fort Hill and French streets is a ,small sheet of water through which this little stream flows, called ROUND POND.
New Bridge Street, which runs in It southerly direction from Fort-Hill Street, crosses Fresh River, passes through 13ARE SWAMP, and skirts. the easterly side of GREAT HILL, which lies between it and Hobart Street. Bare Swamp was, like all meadows found already cleared of forest by the early settlers, very valuable to them, for the reason that such lands afforded forage for their cattle. In their system of valuation meadow property was rated highest, corn lands next, and woodlands least. How the present estimate would reverse this if a portion of the magnificent primeval forest which they found were yet standing I Bare Swamp whom they came, was found to have been cleared by the beavers, and received its name from its being bare of trees. Those animals, evidently plenty up to that time, had by their dams across the watercourses, overflowed the vicinity. This had, perhaps, been the case for centuries, at least for so long a period that the trees had died out and fallen, and meadow land was the natural consequence.
(,rest Hill is rather a barren height, as are most of the small eminences about it ; but interspersed among these are various little green and fertile meadows. Some of them are under culti vation, others growing up to woods, which it is to he bolted will advance III) the slopes of the hills, thus increasing their value and enhancing their beauty. The neighborhood is of great in terest to the geologist, exhibiting as it does, remarkable traces of the occupancy of this region by the great glacier. PIGEON PLAIN is a Sandy tract of ],in(] between the Great Hill district and High Street. It was in early days a brand; of the wild pigeons
South of Hobart Street, and between it and High Street, lies HF51LOCK SWAMP. At the corner of French and High streets is NUTTY (or NUTTER's) HILL, 80 called because the early settlers found walnuts there in great abundance.
Ile vend High Street is Ward Street. The portion of this road, OLD WARD STREET, which used to be a, highway running nearly
Riding through the pleasant old deserted Ward Street, we reach Whiting Street, formerly ANN's TURNPIKE (or " Quean " Ann's Turnpike). This name,, sad to say, was not bestowed in honor of good Queen Anne, but was derived from the sobriquet of a far less reputable individual, who kept a tavern of Unsavory reputation upon it in former days.
This street enters Hingham from Weymouth, and makes its exit at QUEEN ANN'S CORNER, just east of Accord Pond, at the point where it meets Main Street. On Whiting Street, near the Weymouth line, is a rocky ridge across the street, called THE DEVIL'S BACK. It is said that whatever may be done !it the way of covering this ridge, or lowering it by blasting, it always in time reappears. Whether the inhabitants of an earlier generation considered this peculiarity as evincing Undue activity on the part of Satan in making travel in that vicinity more laborious, or whether they surmised that the " Ward Witches " had a hand in the mischief, instigated thereto by the Evil One, they bestowed upon the ridge this unsanctified name. The territory certainly must have been Within the jurisdiction of those " Ward Witches," who were lady members of a family which formerly dwelt in a part of the town not very far away, and who were popularly believed to practise the Black Art.
Passing southeast over this old turnpike we come to a deep ravine through which flows, in a northerly direction, an active little stream called PLYMOUTH RIVER. Further oil, a branch of the same crosses the road. This " river ' " now but a brook in size, received its name from the fact of its beingon the way to Plymouth, as it crossed the OLD INDIAN PATH which was in this vicinity, and which was the only road which the early settlers had between Boston and Plymouth.
It least be noted that the little streams called 11 rivers " in Hingham, were doubtless in aboriginal days much wider and deeper than now The denudation of the country by the extirfation of the heavy forests, with the consequent desiccation of lands which then held in their sponge- like soils, mulched by thousands of generations of fallen leaves, volumes of water vastly in excess of what falls ,poll or remains in them now, has resulted in the dwarfing of the once good-sized streams, and the dirninution of file annual rainfall ; and the. dry and starveling woodlands (as compared with the primeval forest), cannot retain the moisture necessary to the formation of rivers of any size.
A short distance southeast of the easterly branch of Plymouth
184 History of Hingham
River, on Whiting Street, we come upon Cushing Street, crossingthe old turnpike. We will turn to the right and proceed a few rods until we strike Derby Street, which leads from 'the intersection of Gardner with Whiting Street, westward into Weymouth. This country is all in the old FOURTH DIVISION Ancient landmarks are plentiful in this corner of Hingham, although many of them can with difficulty be distinguished, owing to the country being now extensively covered with Woods Where formerly were farms. Consequently, in most cases their location merely can be pointed out.
South of Derby, and immediately west of Gardner Street, lies HUCKLEBERRY PLAIN, famous for the abundance of the fruit from Which it derives its name. West of this, and south of Derby Street tire the FARM HILLS. Between Derby and Abington Street and Rockland, is MAST SWAMP, where formerly grow very large pines, suitable for masts of vessels. North of Derby Street, and between it and Whiting Street, are the SMOOTH HILLS. To the south again are the THREE HUNDRED ACRES, a tract once helonging to Madam Derby. Derby Street was Dinned in honor Of this lady. Just before this street enters Weymouth, it passes through MUSQUITO PLAIN, 80 called from the supposed super abundance of these insects.
Retracing our course over Derby Street, we will turn into Cushing Street and proceed almost due north. Between this street, Whiting Street, and Plymouth River, is BREAKNECH HILL, How Hot a specially perilous descent where it invades the highway, however steel) it may formerly have been East of Cushing Street, at this point, is HOOP-POLE HILL, whore great quantities of trees were cut in the days when the mackerel fishery was in its prime, to furnish hoops for the barrels made at the harbor for packing the fish. Woods How cover nearly all the hills in this romantic and almost deserted portion of the town. A branch of Plymouth River crosses and recrosses the road along the base of these hills six times. The next point of interest is MULLEIN HILL, a Sharp ridge lying on the east side of the road. The extensive growth of mullein in this localily in past days gave this hill its name. The somewhat abrupt ranges next crossed, and extending west of the road, are those of the HIGH HILLS.
The country all about here has a peculiarly broken surface, and the Woods covering it are principally oak.
WHITE-OAK NECK lies between Plymouth River, just before it enters Cushing's Pond, and EEL RIVER, a little stream which flows north, crossing Cushing Street, and also emptying into this pond. The road turns abruptly to the eastward here, and crosses the southerly extremity Of CUSHING'S POND, a pretty sheet of water lying, among wooded hills, upon the banks of which have been carried on some of the most noted industries of the town. Here is the BUCKET FACTORY, where for generations were made the celebrated "Hingham buckets " which were sold, far and
I go and Factory :it Trip-Hammer Pond,- the productions of all these various industries were justly appreciated both in this country and abroad, and none more so than those of the Stephenson Scale Works. The shipyards of Hingham -- Hall's, Souther's, and
flag. The fishing interests of the town employed a large fleet of fine schooners, well commanded and manned by hundreds of her stalwart young men. These interests built up more than one fortune, largo for those days.
The house near Alain Street was one of the old inns of earlier days. It was known as BRIGADIER CUSHING'S TAVERN. Reaching Main Street, we will turn to the right. The first hill on the road, going south, was in early days called MAYSE'S Or MAY'S, n0W LIBERTY POLE HILL. The country south of this locality, to the town line, is called LIBERTY PLAIN,
At the foot of the southerly slope of this hill, a blind hole leads west through the woods, towards Eel River. This is EEL, RivER LANE. The gradual riseon Alain Street from this point, south, is called DIG-AWAY HiLL (in some old papers DIDGEWAY). Further on, to the west of the road, at Gardner Street, is WHITE OAK PLAIN. Half-way between Gardner Street and the town line, at GARDNER'S BRIDGE, Main Street crosses BEECHWOODS RIVER, sometimes called MILL RIVER, the little stream flowing northeast from Accord Pond, which unites with others near the centre of the township to form WEITZ RIVER.
On the town line where Main Street meets 11 Queen Ann's Turn pike , " now Whiting Street, is QUEEN ANN'S CORNER, and a few rods to the west is AccorD POND, from which Hingham draws its water supply. It is a beautiful sheet of water, of about three fourths of a mile in length, lying within the limits of three towns, - Hingham, Rockland,and Norwell (formerly South Scituate The easterly shore is bordered by open country, the west Bide generally heavily wooded. The forest in this vicinity is largely composed of the Scarlet Oak, and at this season is in a blaze of brilliant coloring
It is a singular fact that of all the ponds of any considerable size
in Hingham, but one is a natural pond. All the rest, Cushing's, Fulling-Mill,
Trip-Hammer, Thomas's, and the Mill
186 History of Hingham.
pond, are artificial. According to one tradition Accord Pond received its name from the following irennistanecs.
A treaty with the Indians was about to Ile concluded by the inhabitants of the adjacent country, and it was decided to assemble for the purpose at the point where the three towns of Abington, Scituate, and Hingham at that time met, somewhere near the middle of the pond which lay within the limits of these three townships. The conference was held in winter, on the ice, and was entirely successful, tile! questions at issue being settled amicably. On account of the happy accord which manifested itself between the contracting parties, the sheet of water received from that time the name of Accord Pond.
There are other traditions of similar import, but this one seems the most interesting.
One other large natural pond was within the original limits of Hingham, - Scituate Pond ; but it lies in Cohasset, which town, as previously stated, was set off from Bingham in 1770.
A small Stream Called SLOUGH RIVER flows from the Farm Hills across Gardner Street, and empties into the northern extremity of Accord Pond.
OnMain Street, a long house, almost the last building in Hingham before reaching the town line, was in the early part of the century SIVRET's TAVERN. The old country taverns in those days were vastly more numerous than they are now, when the railroads covering the country have rendered them superfluous.
And now that bright yellow sunset over there, beyond the Blue Hills, indicates a fine day for to-morrow.
This bright morning follows appropriately in the wake of the past few perfect days ; and now let us start for a stroll at the old cove itself. From the Mill bridge, passing west through North Street (the old TOWN STREET of the early settlers) we come within a few rods to where the road bends slightly to the right. Here, where the millpond contracts to half its previous width, there was in the early days of the town, a second mill, and mill-dam across to the cemetery hill. A short distance farther west is Ship Street on the right, in old times Fish STREET. At this spot the early settlers with Rev. Peter Hobart landed from their bouts.
The old houses on either corner of Ship and North Streets were formerly the WATERs TAVERNS Ali old house next to the one of these two on the westerly corner, was the NYE TAVERN. Here is where certain British officers, quartered in town as prisoners of war during the Revolution, were brought for their meals. the Old house next west of the Nye Tavern, standing on rising ground, MANSION, was the home of the
Opposite this spot, South Street caters North Street diagonally. This road also was termed TOWN STREET when laid out by the first settlers. At its very beginning it crosses the Town Brook by MAGOON'S BRIDGE
Passing on a few rods more, we conic to Alain Street, which runs south from the. railroad depot.on the easterly corner of Cottage Street, which eaters North Street opposite Alain, stands the Cushing House, formerly the UNION HOTEL and earlier yet, LITTLE & MOREY'S TAVERN. This was a noted old inn in its day. Next east of it is a very old house which was one of the " GARRISON-HOUSER" Of the time Of King Philip's War.
Main Street crosses the Town Brook by BROAD BRIDGE The old bridge, notwithstanding its name, was formerly hardly wide enough for two trams to pass abreast, and a watering place for horses and cattle existed by the roadside where it crossed the brook. It is related that a worthy citizen, hurrying in a violent thunder strom to fetch the doctor, was obliged to wait for a flash of lightning to show him the bridge, which in the darkness was quite invisible. There is no locality in Hingham Of which tile name has a more familiar settled than that of the 11 ]'road Bridge." Very near it,on both sides of the road, stood many of the shops where the town wits and celebrities used in the old time to gather in the winter evenings to talk over news and politics, crack jokes, and tell stories, seat(,, of which have come down to posterity with all their pristine savor. Pertinent to this subject may be a little circumstance which took place -it a fine colonial mansion bard by, where dwelt in former days a, gentleman of the, old Hingham school, Squire Blank. "onto French officers who had served with General Lincoln under Washington, were travelling in this country, and cattle to Hingham to pay their respects to the old general. Squire Blank gave It soiree in their honor and considered himself in courtesv bound to converse ill French instead of the vernacular. Consequently, after welcoming his foreign guests, lie launched into a general conversation with file most prominent Frenchman, who stood gracefully bowing and smiling, and using the most agonized endeavors to comprehend the Squire's French. At last, in despair of coming at his enter tainer's meaning, lie broke out deprecatingly but vigorously, :Old in the Squire's mother tongue, " For Heaven's sake, Mr. Munk, speak English if you can. I "
OnNorth Street, facing Broad Bridge, where the Catholic Church now is, there stood until recently a line old colonial mansion, having tapestried balls, and with some of the doorpanels decorated by sketch" painted by the celebrated Madam
Just beyond South Street the road formerly divided. The principal roadway , came over the low hill upon which the DERBY ACADEMY stands, tile westerly portion of which has since been cut down. The other road ran along the foot of this hill. Between the two roadson the high land stood the post-office, and one or two other buildings. Several old gravestones also were
When the street was lowered to ill(! present level by cutting down the hill and removing the buildings upon it, many graves were found in and about the roadway, containing the bones of some of the First settlers. These were reverently gathered together and reinterred within the breastworks of the OLD FoRT, which is a circular earthwork on the summit of the burial hill, back of the Academy. This fort was built to command the approach by water, either of Indians in their canoes during King Philip's War, or in anticipation of' a possible attack at the time of the troubles with the Dutch at New York. It is kept in a fine state of preservation, and a plain granite shaft in tile, centre was erected by the town to the memory of the first settlers. Aioulid its enter slope are set man.%, very quaint and ancient giavestones, unearthed here and there in the process of repairs or improve ment of this beautiful cemetery In the airan-entent and adorn ment of this resting-ptace of the dead, the, taste displayed all([ the great work done by Dr. R. T. P Fisku and Mr. Joh;i Todd, the .gentlemen who have had it in charge during, the past fifty years, have been in the hi0iest dc~,rce creditable and honorable to them.
In this cemetery are interred sonic of the most distinguished of Americans, as well as those men who elime from over the Sea to make Ilingliain their home. Ilere sloop the long, line of eminent pastors of the First Parish, who preached ill ill(,, Old M(Tting lionse yonder, --- Hobart, Gay, Norton, Ware, Richardson, Lincoln. Many families whose inembors have attained to high position in the potitical, military, professional, or lov;iiiess circles of the republic bring their dead here to the hoine of their ancestors, to slumber in the beautifully wooded hills or valleys of this lovely spot.
Many a soldier, frolil the 101lerld Collinollidillp, all nrilly to file riflemen MID Stood shoulder to shoolder ill the line of battle, await~ the halit reveille, lwlo. Many :1 sailor, Aillo folt(lid mider "Old Clary " behind the eannonon the high seaq, is roatil to start 111) from this gi oilld when " kit handson dvell: I " is piped for the List time. The, baid) of Major- Oolloral l"clij:111611 Lincoln, of the Revohitiollarv Arniv, i,; hert'. John Mbioll Andrew, the " "rent ANar governor" of ~Iiassaclhll.,etls 11111-ile, the Rebollioll, ics ts livic by his nionlioneld. The Shalt to those who died bvIalid or st'a ill the war for Cho l7nion crowns oil(, of thesi, IK-loilitid heikdlls.
above all other buildings, and embowered in fine trees, it is too Well known to need description here. In simple, homely grandeur it towers there, a century older than the republic its self. If it could speak so as to be heard by mortal ears, what might it not reveal of the dead and of the living, of the story of the past! But to those who love Hingham and her history, it has a thousand tongues which are never silent.
Main Street, as far as PEAR-TREE HILL, Which is the Steep bluff at the beginning of the Lower Plain, was, in the earliest times, known as BACHELOR's ROWE, or BACHELOR STREET.
The salt marshes cast of the road, below Pear-Tree Hill, are the HOME MEADOWS.
Having surmounted Pear-Tree Hill, we are upon the LOWER PLAIN, which is a tract of mainly level country extending South as far as Tower's Bridge, on Main Street. But we will leave this street and take Leavitt Street eastward. A large, low building on the corner, under a noble buttonwood-tree, was, in former days, LEWIS'S INN. the large, old-fashioned building east of it was Once the Old ALMSHOUSE.
Leaving the Agricultural Hall upon the left, we soon come to Weir River, here crossed by LEAVITT'S BRIDGE. A short distance further oil, a Way is reached winding off to the right and South, which is PoPE's LANE, or POPE'S HOLE. At the first turn on this lane are the CLUMP BAR,;, known also to the boys of past generations as PLUMB BARS. This is evidently a corruption, as they derived the name from being, in former times, near a clump of trees When there were but few trees in the vicinity The country thereshouts had not then grown up to woodlands, but was devoted to tillage or pasturage. Between this lane and Weir River lies ROCKY MEADOW. Turning to the eastward, the way leads into thick woods, in a rocky, rolling country, and among these,on the right side of the lane, is the wild and romantic ledge known as INDIAN ROCK.
Nearly opposite this rock is CHUBBUCK'S WELL, and the cellar of CHUBBUCK'S HOUSE, which house itself was demolished in 1759. This old well, now filled to the brim with leaves and debris, yet shows the carefully built wall, as good now as when constructed by Thomas Chubbuck, who was an early settler in 1634.
Further down the lane there is a rocky place in the woods called THE HOGPEN.
The lane, turning westward, crosses TRIP HAMMER POND by a causeway. This pond is formed by Weir River, which flows through it. There were formerly iron works here, with a triphammer, and also a shingle factory.
Returning to Leavitt Street (the part of which leading into Third Division Woods was the old THIRD DIVISION LANE) We will stop to look into JAMES LANE, now so overgrown with woods that it cannot be distinguished, except by its location, from other cartways into the forest. It leads to JAMES HILL, in Cohasset
We are now in the THIRD DivisioN WOODS, which extend far and wide, over hill, dale, arid swamp, arid form probably the nearest approach to the primeval wilderness which call be found within fifteen miles of Boston. They spread over into Cohasset, and far southward. The deciduous part of these woodlands is largely composed of various species of the oak family ; the ever green portion principally of the white pine, although many other species of both classes of trees abound. At the side of the old Third Division Road,on the line between Hingham arid Cohasset, is a mark which was called the STONE BOUNDS. When the Select men of the two towns "make their rounds," they are popularly and mysteriously supposed to reach this mark at high noon, arid according to the ancient custom "crack a bottle " .91pinst it. Other landmarks in Third Division Woods are Josh LEAVITT'S BARS, on the right side of the way near the road to Beechwoods. Near by is Tuoui,it. Bunn's 11u,L, sit called from a Mr. Burl., n ho owned land at its foot. GLASS ROCK was on the line of the
Division, fitr south.
Now let its return again to Leavitt. Strect, and, refrochilg our fornior course, turn to the eastward into TtTIZKIIY HILL LIlNE, which leads ill) over threp quite elevated eminences, until wo reach the pl'illCipal 110i'lit Of TURKEN HILL. It is a mile to this summit. At tire first, bend, to the ril.-lit of the buic, are the re inains of what was once it IMP, or enormous bowlder, nbout twelve feet high, with a roundod tell slophil, off qiiiootltl%l to the south. This, Was GREAT ROCK. Upon this Sillo0ill surface an eccentric individual hall clikelled in larIge letters this odd inscrip tioll : -
A few feet away from the above, was also cut the following: "THIS INSCRIPTION WAS WROUGHT BY HOSEA SPRAGUE, A NATIVE of HINGHAM, WHO WAS A TRAVELLER HERE July 4th, 1828."
It was regarded as a great curiosity, and would have been more and more interesting- as time passed on. But, unhappily, in the year 1833 certain persons considered that the only value in the great rock was the handful of dollars which it would bring for building purposes, and it was blown to pieces and sold for a pittance.
As one mounts higher and higher Upon this bill, or rather Upon this series of heights, the view in all directions grows more and more beautiful, Until, when the top of Turkey Hill is reached, it may be called sublime.
Look at it now in this red October sunset ! To the easton the horizon lies the deep blue line of the broad Atlantic, which sweeps round toward the north. North and northwest are the headlands and islands of the bay. In the extreme distance in this last direction the sun's rays flame upon the roofs and towers of the city. In the nearer space they are reflected in golden light from the placid waters of the harbor. Weir River shines between the green meadows, almost at our feet, like a silver thread. The Blue Hills lore misty in the far west. Villages and houses speck the landscape here and there. That great hill to the southeast is SCITUATE HILL.
Now torn southwards. There are brilliant woodlands in the other directions, but what a glory of scarlet, yellow, and green from the painted forests that stretch away to the southern horizon's Vd1oQ ]lure ! This Surpasses any other Hingham view.
it, the War of 1812 people came to this hillon a sorrowful June day to see a famous naval duel. The British frigate 11 Shannon " ho~l been cruisim, off Boston harbor, and the captain sent a clial leiiL,e in to Captain Lawrence, who commanded the frigato 11 Cliesa peako," thea 13 ing at the navy yard, her crew litivinz heen paid off. The American officer gathered :is good a crew as could be obtained from the sailors in port, and hurriedly set sail to onect the enemy. The encounter was off Scituate, and was very sanguinary. In the midst of it the bravo Lawrence fell, mortally wounded. As they carried him below lie cried, " Don't give up the, ship!" But, with his fall, the Americans ]lost heart, and after a hopeless struggle they were forced to surrender. A sad and wretched pageant for the spectators on Turkey Fill and all the shoree!
Turkey Hill lies mostly in Hlingham, but a part is in Cohasset. Its name was bestowed on account of the early abundance of wild turkeys there.
Ancient Landmarks- 193 leave the old way In descending the hill at d out through the - --cl. a -;,-ate r and Va. o, I P1 - - -- lope till it reaches dark pine woods, winding b We Come Out Of STDF-HILL ROAD, foRorb" we will turn into these charming Woods illso PASTURE, or TRE
and proceed toward C(basset, THE BATTERY liamo is
BATTERY, was near Sido-Ilill read. The origin Of tile
singular tongue of Hingliam territory
T HE 110MESTEADS. it is only a few rods it, Wid , to nothing at the railroad crossing at its east end. 11 The U olluesteads" Were the home bonds of certain of the inhabitants, who,
, Coluesset was laid off fron, Hingham, petitioned to be soon aftei ~o Ifingilain. 01, allowed to have their lauds here re-arinexed I FADOW"', and the
the north side of East Street are the Tuni(EY Al
s the, road feel,, the South and ovcll)tu little stream which crosse ally into Lyford's
ally flows under Larribert's Lane, emptying fill
-111LL RUN. Liking River, is TURKEY o come back to where Side-11ill Road
Retracil)g our course, w this ~ullction once stood the BLACK ends on
East Street. Near I persons on their
IloRsE TAVERN, a famous resort for gunner, an, way to or from
[it'll, Ebenezer Beal was the old-time host Of this
Bull. et leads north from this point to Nantasket Beach.
Ifull Stre, ~ )art of "The Ifolliesteads" it
From the extreme northwesterly ad Cohasset. About
forins the boundary line between Hinghano a half a mile from the railroad crossing, Canterbury Street leads
, il-ne district called CANTERBURY, away oil the left, throngl], in Canterbury Street
aln Its ol ld little houses, man y F Of them havin- the
along the shore. the rough nod ~Ocky front door painted in most geotis lines,
salty BRv-Or c it, some respects Peculiar to EL village whose characteristics wer re wrecks were not UDCORIMOH, on the Now England coast whe lent a picturesque ghtluOur to the lianalet and its people. Alas all this is gone now, and t1le, charin Whicil once hung Over this
1-3 in order to MT com tr riding Will be rece"sa id make oil" WRY wQS -n back again to East Street, at
We will tui crossing the railroad track and winditl~g ward That, little
read,
194 Ilistory of Mugham.
through a rocky, shrubby country and over high lands toward Rockland Street, is Weir Street, once the, old WEIR RIVER LANE. It, affords one of the beautiful and sequestered rides for which Hingham and Cohasset are famed, The tract of high land lying cast of it, now largely overgrown by woods, used to be GREAT PASTURE.
A little further on, around -I bond in the road, we come to CUSHING's BRIDGE, across Weir River. Many rule 11 wine-glaall chns " are scattered here and there in the ineadow by the river's banks, and by tire roadside, across the Stream, is the magnificent OLo ELM, Which was transplanted to this spot in 1729, three years before the birth of Washington. It is justly celebrated for it-, size and symmetry. All the territory in this vicinity, from Hall Street to Summer Street, has always been known as ROCKY NOOK.
The read, after passing a row of sturdy red oaks on the left, which must have been old tree-, when the Pilgrims hunlLd, reaches. a descent cut through it rough ledge and known as ItocKY HILL. Just bPyOlld the hi"ll lands to the vi~llt is CHANUMILIN's SWA~tl?, ,and the little stroma running throul-1) the lileadow, parallel with the road and crossin', it at last, to elilpty into Weir River at the foot of the Agricultural 806CWS fll`0111111S, is CHAMBERLIN'S RUN. It is nearly dry in summer. The large wbite house between it a rid the Agricultural Hall, now a private residence, was, in the old days, a tavern.
1,ust Street ends at Leavitt Street, passing over which west to Alain Street, we find ourselves in the middle of the village of "Hinghain Centre," open LOWER PLAIN, which eXtClide from Pear-Tree Hill to Tower's Bridge, as generally understood, although tile. town book giving the " narries of Streets. laries, plains, and bridges, as established by the tolvii May 7, 1827, and since," gives the lioundaries of Lower Plain, " Pleasant Street to PearTree Hill."
Main Street runs through the village, passing Trip, Cox~wN, lying east of tire public li6rary, andon the west side of the road at this point a fine old-fnsbic~ued residence, which was in earlier da ' vs it tavern. A short distance beyoud, opposite the Grand ArmV Hall, is a deep depression on tire north side of the road, containing a siriall sheet of water, now hardly more than a puddle, which was often referred to in old deeds as BULL'S POND. Ali ALxsHousE formerly stood on the site of the Grand Army Hall.
After a turn to the westward, about a quarter of a mile further oil, the street turns abruptly South at COLD CORNER, and a few roils bevorld is entered by Hobart Street, near the~ corner of which ~as the old TowN PouNo, where Stray cattle were impounded. Half a mile or so beyond, the road crosses ,I little Stream by Townits Brunap. From this bridge to the south line
A short distance further south 'Main Strect crosses the stream coluing from Ullshing'K Pend by WILDER,
I s Bmeop. From Ilas brid"'o to Mavse'N (Lilwr(y Pole) Hill, is GLAn-TiDINGS PLAIN.
After surniouliting anttlwr -is(' in tbo road, we find on (lie west ,-idi
, distance, runniyl~ between extensive lio.derin',, lawris and line rows of trecs. 'Back of the houses on the east side is a high granite ledge, known as CLAD TJJ)INI;~ 1?0VK.
Ill King lihilip's War, a famous hunter, John Jacob by name, lvent, out to 'hoot deer
. near where the church now stands. lie, is quilt to have fi-equently declared that lie never would allow hillisolf to lie taken alive by the Indians if lip encountpred t1win. Thel aniliushed and Shot him dead near this rock, and one tra~litioii snys I lat. his friends, overjoyed to find that lie had 6een Cilled coutri".
,ht, and riot, captured to be, tortured to denth ' I- I lie sava,~es, calied it (ami-Tidings Rock. Another tradillo - re counts that it wollia", lost by her friends, was diseovemd 11 , v thern floor fire tolo of the rock, and that from this circumstance the ledge received its name. I 196 History of ffinghain.
We will turn eastward into South Pleasant Street, on the corner of which is a notable mansion, the ]ionic of the celebrated Rev. Daniel Shute, D.D., the first pastor of the Second Parish. The house is inhabited at the present day by one of his lineal descendants.
,South Pleasant Street is shaded by noble elms, set out by a former member of the old Cushing family ; whose lands, for generations, have extended far and wide in this section, and do still, for hereabouts the population is largely composed of Cushings.
FULLING-MILL POND ison the right of the road, and at its outlet, which is a little stream called FULLING-MILL BROOK, once stood the FULLING MILL. The bridge across this brook is PACE'S BRIDGE. Betwben Paee's Bridge and Lasell Street, on the south side of the road, is LITTLE POND. This is it sluice-way of clear water which never freezes, and is on a piece of land of about three acres in extent, which was leased by the town to the Rev. Dr. Sbute for nine hundred and ninety-nine years! The hill beyond Page's Bridge is rightly named STONY HILL.
Now we will strike off into Laselll Street, a wild and pretty road, winding mostly through woods and between shrubby waysides.
On the easterly side of this street, about one eighth of a mile from Free Street, and just north of a rocky rise, there is in a thickly overgrown and woody field, the OLD LASELL FINE.
It seems probable that this ancient giant may be one of the few mighty trees yet remaining of the primeval forest. The shattered branches, rent by the storms of ages, would themselves form large trees, and the vast trunk, standing grimly amid its own ruins, presents but a picturesque suggestion of the old pine's earlier majesty.
ROCKY RUN is a little stream flowing Under the street.
Entering Union Street, we find that FEARING's BRIDGE crosses Weir River a short distance further northward, where it flows among willows. Now, turning about, we will keep to the southward over this street. At the first bend to the east, on rising ground, there is a gateway, through which a cart road leads to Tinp-IlAbimnn POND. A short distance beyond this gateway LONG BRIDGE LANE runs eastward from Union Street, winding through woods to granite quarries, and then crosses Beechwoods River. Near the entrance to this lane is COAL-PIT HILL. A few rods further south the road crosses Beechwoods River at SPRAGUE'S BRIDGE, and then passing the place where South Pleasant Street enters it, rises on to high land, and over what is called THE MOUNTAIN, or MOUNT BLUE ROAD, Mount Blue being in Norwell across the line.
The view west and south from this vicinity is very fine, and the drive over this road, thence over Beechwood Street into Cohasset, is a most delightful one.
ink-berry, is not uncommon on the open roadsides of Union Street.
Retracing our way, and taking South Pleasant Street, we will turn south into Charlel; Street by Stony Hill. Here is MASTBRIDGE PLAIN, MI)CIT formerly fine inasts were out from the forest to equip the vessels building at the harbor. AIAST-BRIDCE MEADOWS lie along Beechwoods River. This little stream is crossed by Hunspy's BRIDGE. The noble height to the east is PROSPECT HILL, the highest in Hingliani. The view from the summit is very extensive.
After crossing liersey's Bridge the road turns southward. To the westward is THE WIGWAM, a most interesting locality. Here dwelt the Indians in considerable numbers, and the sl~one fireplaces of their wigwains were standing within the remembrance of persons now living. Many of their implements of domestic use and of the chase have been found here.
There renutins but one part of Hingham which has not been explored for the landmarks. To cover that, we will start at Cold Corner and take Central Street, a road laid out within a few years, which near the Ropewalks runs over a imirsh which wis once known as CHRISTMAS POND. No trace now rerilains,however, which would indicate that a pond had ever existed here. Turning west into Ella Street, we soon pass over rising ground, the portion of Which oil the rilght, between Elm and Hersey street~, was called POWDER-11OUS'll, IIILL. A red POWDER HOUSE formerly stood upon it, in which %vas stored a supply of gunpowder. It was moved here from the hill just north of the New North Church, oil Lincoln Street.
Near the corner of Elm and Hersey streets, there stood until within a few years a beautiful wood, known as TRAN~')ITILTXTY GROVE. It was ]oil- made use of for picnics an(] various other s-is of gi -hops, social , political, and religious. The early ot thet ' ' I t for some of their stirrill" nleetilw's. abolitionists Ilse( i 7
The bove" part of Mersey Street, froin Elul to South street's was in carly tinies AUSTIN's LANE, taking its naine, fniin Jonas Austin, one of the first settlers in 1636, who had his homestead grantedon Town Street (now South) at the north end of this laile.
South Street, which was, like North Street, first called Toa`N STREET,
begins at North Street opposite the old Gay inalision, in[inediately crosses
Alu!_~oon's Bridge, and runs west. After cross ile, Main 'Strect, and just
before Lafayette Averine is reached, it until within three years passed
by a li~iucly old provincial buildinlo, which was in the last century the
ANcHoa TAVERN. Cvllend Lafayette once lodged in it when lie had occ:ision
to pass flic night in llingharn, during the Revolutionary War. It %%as
the
198 History of Hingham,
country home of John A. Andrew, the war governor of Massachusetts, for one summer during the great rebellion. The short street which contiects South with North Street, immediately west of the railroad depot, crosses the town brook, and is known as THAXTFR's BntDCE. In the old days the WHIPPING POST Was located here. About a quarter of a mile further on, and a few rods cast (if AUSTIN's LANE (now Hersey Street), formerly stood the old PINE-TREE TAVERN. Oil the Site of it there now stands a large white house which was built by General Lincoln for his son-iii-law and private secretary, Mr. Abner Lincoln. The road runs west and enters Fort-Hill Street after crossing the Town Brook at Drany's BRIDGE. On the south side of the street at this point formerly stood the mansion of Madarn Derby, who applied the properiy left for the purpose by her first husband, Dr. Ezekiel Hersey, to founding Derby Academy. Alany stories are told of this able but eccentric wonian. Among others is this one, applicable to her home.
She lead it rustiv, seat arranged among the branches of one of the trees Hear her house, front which she could observe her laborers in the fields. She was upon one occasion sitting there decidedly in dishabille, when she saw a carriave some distance off, containiDg visitors whom she bad expected to arrive later in the day, but with whom site was not well acquainted. She jumped down from tier perch, ran round to the back of the house, caught a brace of chickens on the way, twisted their Hooks and flung them to the cook with orders to broil them for dinner at once, ran through the house, and (her house Servants not being at bonic) received the guests, who did Hot know her in her r6le of servant, showed them to their rooms, and lialitening to her own, dressed and descended to the parlor to welcome them as Madam Deiby; and they did Dot recognize the servant who bad usbori-d theiii to their apartments in the lady of the mansion who received them in state.
When the money for the endowment of Derby Academy was brought front 1;aloin to Hingbain by Nathan Lincoln an(] his wife (lie wits a nephew of Ill-. Ezekiel Hersey), it was concealed in a bucket which stood on the floor of a chaise, between Mr, and Mrs. Lincoln. Madam Derby caused Stories ill the collar wall of her house to be removed, and the money, enclosed in woollen bags, was built into the wall, for concealment and safetv.
When this old mansion was burned, in the early part of this century, there had been living in it people whose babits of life were fill- fioni being such as invited the approval of the neighbors. And certain old women who were gathered together watching its destruction, averred that the)- saw fiendg and witches ascending ill the smoke and dancing in the flames.
The nineteenth century would appear to be a little subscipient to the era of unseemly performances on the prut of indk iduals
Yon have now beca with Hie anion', the landniarkg of these old towns, from tho 'prini ledges off it , e eastern shote, where the surf beats itsi-If incessantly to foam all(] Slimy oil Coluisset rocks, to tile sill"Illor lollill", gravel niouluis at ill(! AvoA ond of Mao halli, where the of the last ice-poriod has left such in. disputable loools of it', fol-liter presence, - front the protty landlocked harbor at the north, the ancient 11 Bare Cooe~" to the secluded woodiands; which cover the gientor part of the southern Portion of these. townships; and where the ponds, ihow scarcely rallied shoets of bill(,. woter, lie riniong, green ineadcovs and for esis like sapphires aniong, vincralds,-throulph oil Arcot's Slid 1"Oles full of point- of intorest to the antiquarian, end over beau tiful hill,%, whose graceful contour form% the backguound of eicry land,oape We maritime Now Ew-dquIdurs breathe a double inspitntion from out- sni-roundings, for, liNvOling by ill(,, ocean, upoll AvIliell our people haNe proved themselves worth ' v descondonts (if the Northnion, we are at the same, thyto praoticallY mountaineers. Our rockv hills are the foot-bilis of t1w mountain ranges a few Miles W114 and 1101-th Of us, Which on the Coast of Maine actually invade the realin of the sei. Even upon Boston Bay, look at those Mile Hills of Milton, who,;(! tops 9rG sometimes above tile clouds. A %hort dishanee iniand, and Wachusett and Monalillock allow their headK, while Mount Washington itself is visible from the 90.1-coast.
In the atmosphere of such surroundings, what wonder is it (hit( 1111011 MIIS COodaillill" the Hingham and Coliasset names of Lincoln, cosi,ing, iiobart, Tower, Gay, Thaxter, Shute, Sprague, Pratt, llorseN, '~toddard. Fvaritig, and others, should be found many which have adorned the professions of the ministry, law, all(( inedicine which have become eminent '.IS those of poets, liter'di, Zirtists of men who have achieved the fortune and practiged ill(,, lik,ralitv of merchant princes ; who in the, battle line 6v land and Sea have, frona -,,liters -it their glins and soldiers in the ranks to great generals, shed lustre upon the Colony aud the Republic ; N% ho have, as deputies, or congressinell, or governors, or anihassadors, reaped honorable laurels in this and in foreign hUldS ; Or laKf(V, ill ill(,' presidential chair itself, won a sinipic, homely, but ifluArious faine which will through all our future history go hand in ]land Ni ith that of Washington
EARLY SETTLERS.
. 11 lit 1635, in addition to those before-mentioned (namely: Joseph
Andrews, Thomas Chubbuck, Henry Gibbs, Edmund Hobart, Sen., Edmund Hobart,
Jr., Joshua Hobart, Rov. Peter Hobart, Thomas Hobart, Nicholas Jacob, Thomas
Lincoln, weaver, Rallph Smith), were Jonas Aastill, Nicholas Baker, Clement
Bares, Richard Betscome, Benjamin Bozworth, William Buckland, James Cade,
Anthony Cooper, John Cutler, Jobn Farrow, Daniel Fop, Jarvice Gould, Wor.
Hersey, I Nicholas Ilodsdin, Thus. Johnson, Andrew Lane, Win. Lar,~,
Thomas Loring, George Larkin, Jeremy Morse, William NoltOu,'Jo=n6tis, David
Phippeny, John Palmer, John Porter, Henry, Rost, John Smart, Francis Smith
(or Smyth), John Strong, Henry Tuttil, William Walton, Thomas Andrews,
William Arnall, George Bacon, Nathaniel Baker, Thomas Collier, George Lane,
George Alarsh, Abraham Martin, Nathaniel Peck, Richard Osborn, Thomas Wakely,
Thomas Gill, Richard Ibrook, William Cockerum, William Cockerill, John
Fearing, John Tacker.
<~41a 1636, John Beal, sertior, Anthony Eames, Thomas Hammond, Joseph
Hall, Richard Jones, Nicholas Lobdin, Richard Langer, John , Leavitt, Tbomas
Lincoln, Jr, miller,Thomas Lincoln, cooper, Adam Mott, Thomas Almard, John
Parker, George Russell, William Sprague, George Strauge, Thomas Underwood,
Samuel Ward, Ralph Woodward, John Wincliester, William Walker.
<,11n 1637, Thomas Battles, Josiah Cobbit, Thomas Chaffe, Thomas
Clapp, William Carlslye (or Candy), Thomas I)imock, Vinton Dieuce, Thomas
Bert, Thomas Joshlin, Aaron Ludkin, John Morrick, Thomas Nichols, Thomas
Paynter, Edmund Pitts, Joseph Pbippeny, Thomas Shave, Ralph Smith, Thomas
Turner, John Tower, Joseph Underwood, William Larkin, Jonathan Rozworth.
11 lit 1638 there was a considerable increase of the number of settlers.
Amor,-, them were, Mr. Robert Peck, Joseph Peck, Edward Gilman, John Foulsharn,
Henry Chamberlain, Stephen Gates, George. KDights, Thomas Cooper. Matthew
Cashing, John Beal, Jr., Francis James, Philip Jamps, James ]lack,
Stephen Payne, William Pitts, 'Eawaxil-Michell, John Sutton, Stoplien Liticolo,
Samuel Parker, Thom" Lincoln, Jeremiah Moore, Mr. Henry Smith, Brizoan
Allen, Matthew Hawke, William Ripley.
11 All of those preceding, who came to this country fit 1638, took passage
in the ship I Diligent,' of Ipswich, John Martin, master. In addition to
these, tire followin.q named persons received grants of land in
the year 1638, viz. : John Back, John Benson, Thomas Jones, Thomas Lawrence,
John Stephens, Jolm Stodder, Widow Martha Wilder, Thomas Thaxter.
<"In 1639 Anthony Hilliard and John Prince received grants of land.
The name of Hewett (Iluct) and Liford, are mentioned in Hobares Diary,
11 The number of'persons who came over in the ship 'Diligent,' of Ipswich,
in the year 1638, and setti'-d io I lio~ghaia, was oil(, bombed tia(l thirtythree,
All that came before wete hurty-two, makinIg ill all ooo hundred told seventy-tive.
rhe whole number that came out of NO4011k (elliefly from I lingham, and
its vicinity) from 1633 to 1639, and settl(A it] this Hingham, wa% two
hundred and six. This Statement, On die aut'llOrity Of the third town Clerk
of Hilcyliam, Must Ile. rff(oll'ilcll Witli ill(' U(t that there was a
much larger number of settlers here it) 16:19 thati would appear !rom his
estimate. rimy undoubtedly came in from othcr IdiUMS, aud I am llielileA
to believe that there may be some omissions it, Air. Crishinlg'i list.
It may be remarked here, that many of the names mentioned in the previous
pages are now scattered in various parts of the country. Alany of the first
settlers removed to other places during the militia diffitailtiv, which
occurred within a few year., after the settlement of the town ; and a considerable
number had previously obtained lands at Rehoboth.
11 The earliest record to Ile found of the prococdinl~s of' the town
in relation to the disposition of the lands is in 1635. lit little of that
yeal, grants were malle to a considerable number of individuals, andon
the l8th of September, as has been before stated, thirty of the inhabitants
drew for house-lots, and received grants of other lands for file purposes
of pviture, tillage, ete.
11 It was in July, 1635, that a plantation was eiected here ; andon
the 2d of September following that, the town wall incorpornled by the name
of Hin.-ham, from which it appears that there are but eleven tflovici ill
this State, and but one in the county of Plymouth, older than Hingliam.
I (!:litriot ascertain satisfactorily when the first meeting for civil
purposes was held. It is stated by Mr. Flint in his century discourses,
to have beellon the 18th of September, 1635. There is as much evidence
in our town records, and in those of Cushing's MSS. which I have examined,
that the first town-meeting was held in June of that year,as fit September.
The state, ments fit the same discourses, that tire inhibitai&s of
Hingham arrived in 1635, and that thev obtained deeds of land from the
natives to form file town previously to holdimg the first town-mectin1g,
are unquestionably erroneous, being at Variance with our town records,
Cushing s AISS., and the Indian deed itself.
'the house-lots drawn on the I Rth of September, 1635, were situated
on the "Pown streets' the same which is now called North Street. Hitting
that year the settlement was extended to - Bmwl Cove Street,' recently
named Lincoln Street. In the year following, house-lots were granted ill
the street now called South Street, and ill the nortlierly part of I Bachelor
Street,' now Main Street. "Some idea of the relative wealth of several
towns in 1 (13.5 nctv Ile <"WHEREAs divers Englishmen did formerly come (into the Mastandrusets
now called by the Englishmen New England) to inhabit in the dayes of Chickatabut
our father who was the Cheitia Sachem of the sayd Massitchuseui on the
Southward side of Charles River, and by the free Consent of our sayd father
did set downe upon his land and in the yeare of our Lord God one thousand
six hundred thirty and four divers Englishmen did set downs and inhabit
upon part of the land that was formerly our sayd fathers land, which land
the Englishmen call by the name of Hingham, which sayd Englishmen they
and their heires and assosiata have ever since had quiet and peaceable
possession of their Towneshippe of Hingham by our likeing and Consent which
we desire they may still quietly possess and injoy and bemuse ther have
not yet bin any legall conveyance in writing passed from us to them conserning
their land which may in future time occasion differcress between them and
us all which to prevent - Know all men by these presents that weWompatuck
called by the English Josiah nowCbie1c Sachem of the Massaebusets aftermayel
and somm and beire to the aforimmyll Chick. mabut; and Squanuck all called
by the English Daniel scene of the afouesayd Chickatabut and Alialneu -
Indians: for R valumble consideration to us in hand payd by Captaine
Joshua Hubberd set Ensigne John Thaxter, of Hingham aforesayd wherewith
wee doe acknowledge our selves fully satisfyed contented and payd and thereof
and of every part and pet-cell thereof due exonerate acquitt and discharge
the sayd Joshua Flubberd anti John Thaxter their heires executors and Administrators
and everv of them forever by these presents - have given granted bargained
sold ei4offed and confirmed and by these presents doe give grant bargaine
sell Enfeofre and confirme unto the sayd Joshua Hubberd and John Thaxter
on the behalin and to the use of the inhabitants of the Towne of Hingham
aforesayd that is to say all such as are the present owners and proprietors
of the present house lotts as they have bill from time to time granted
and layd out by the Towne ; All That Tract (if land which is the Towneshippe
of Hinglumn aforesityd as it is now boarded with the sea northward and
with the River called by the Englishmen weymoth River westward which River
flow bum the sea; and the line that devide, betwene the sayd Hingham and
Weymoth as it is now layd out and marked until it come to the line that
devide betwene the colony of the Massachusetts and the colony of New Plimoth
and from thence to the midle of accord pond and from the midle of accord
pond to bound Brooke to the flowing of the salt water and Be along
by the same River that devide betwene Scittiate and the said Hingliam untill
it come to the sea northward ; And also threescore acres of salt marshon
the other side of the River that is to say on Scittiam side according as
it was ingreed upon by the coninnissioners of the lilassachusets colony
and the commissioners of Plimoth colony Together with all the Harbours
Rivers Creekes Coves Islands fresh water brookes and Include and all marshes
unto the sayd Towneshippe of flint'll!"n belonging or any wales apil'taineing of Great Brittautie France and Ireland King defender of the faith
'Josiah Wompatuck Squinuck Alianden Indians Speared P'sonally the 19th
of May I F;68 and acknowledged this inArtmin't of writing to be i1myr act
and deed freely and voluntary without compulsion, acknowledged before
Connection with a fine for bad roads, or leave to make hay in Conihasset
meadows, or Permission to use its inecting-house for a watch-house, or
the appointment of a cominittei- to .-"I- .-
.11,,tu lug doncultics with Autritasket, or something of equally homely
import. There is in these records no cant, our snill im,, none of that
pretelitious sanctimoniousness which is so flipl;untly charged upon file
Puritans. There is less reference to theology than to ways and means ;
and the practical question, for instance of restraining the liquor-traftic
and evil, seems to have taxed the'ingenuity and attention of their law-makers
and magistrates very much as it does in the case of their descendants.
There is no waste of words in the grint sentences, but a plain, wholesome
dealing with the material needs of the colony. One cannot read them and
not feel the sense of justice and righteousness that inspired the leaders
of the settlement, and that songlit, rigorously indeed but honestly, to
institute and maintain a commonwealth which should be animated by virtue,
thrift ' education, the sanctity and sweetness of horne, fear of God, and
fair dealing among men. They were developing th sturdy, educating' self-reliant
New England town life which till forty or fifty years ago was so unique,
but which since then has gradually been disintegrated and changed by the
tremendous influence of the transportatiODS of the railroad, the wide scattering
of the New England seed, the influx of foreign elements, the rapid growth
of large cities, the drain on rural sources, and the general change from
diffusion to consolidation, and from the simplest and most meagre to the
most profuse and complex material resources.
202 Histary of Hingham.
in that year, and in the Diary tire following names are first found in
the respective years mentioned; in 164(;, Burr, in 1647, James Whitoll
-1 ill 1649, John Lazell, Samuel Stowell; in 1653, Garnett and Canterbury.
Early Settlers. 203
1,, -- - .--. .1 - choice -
all tile Harkours Rkeis Crevio,,, CtOcs Ishinds fie~h water bro"k's
and pondi and :ill neirsh, , thcr unt') 1".1011"ill" INith
the threc"core act es of sait mar,h .,it the other side of the lii~cr (viz.)on
Scittiate side with all und sin gular to the s kN I l"111iise.,
Or allv of them belonging unto the savd ibibiwid and Jobu Thaxteron the
behalle and to the tise of tile aPl inliabitalus %%Ill. trv the present.
Owner ', and proprietios of tile
preivilt lool"t lotts, ill linudcon their heires and V'Sit'lleS fi-Vol
the b0fol'8 nallic.1 time ill the year(- o FOor Lold God One tholu"and
Six handled thirty all,] four for ever And Onto the only proper
use and behoofe of the (tile) Sft)'d .),).%hit:% hubberd and John Thaxter
and the illhabilants of the Towne Of hill"111011 who are the present owners
and looprietori of the present. bouse Otis ill the Towne of Hiull,ban,
their heiresand assi,nies for evel. And the said Ill'ouipatuck Squuntek
and Aluldiden doe hereby covenant promise quit grant to and with the ~ayd
JOShUa llUbberd and Joint Thaxteron the behalfo of tile inhabitanti of
hingliam :is aforesayd dint they the sayd Wonipatuck Squmuck and Aliandan
- are the true and proper owners of the sayd l,qr gained p'misses with
their app'teumices at the time. Of the bar~-miue and sale thereof and that
the said bargained p'misses are free and cleare and ficely and clearely
exonerated acquitted and discharged of and from all and all unmer of former
bargaines intles guifts grants titles mortgages suits attach inents actions
Judgements extents executions dowers title of dowers and all other ineumberances
whatsoever from the begining (if the world untill tile time of the bar.mina
and sale thereof and that the sayd Joshua hubberd and ,join, Thaxter with
the rest of the sayd inhabitants who tire the present owners and proprietors
of the present house lotts in hingham tbe."their beires laid Assignee the
li'misses and every part and parcell thereof shall quietly have hold use
occupy possese and injoy Without the let suit trouble denial[ or molestation
of them the sayd Wouipatuck : Squmuck and Abed. due their heirea and assignes
: and Lastly the sayd NVompatuck: Squiritick and Ahadur. for themselves
their heires executors administrators and as signes doe hereby covenant
promise and grant the li'misges above dernised with all the libertys previledges
and app'tenences thereto or in any wise be longing or appertaineing unto
the sayd Joshua Hubberd John Thilixter and the rest of the sayd inhabitants
of Hingham who are the present own ers and proprietors of the present house
lotts their heires and assignes to warrant acqaitt and defend forever against
all and all matter of right title and Interrest claims or demand of all
and every person or persons whatso ever. And that it shall and may be lawfull
to and for the sayd Joshua Hubberd and John Thaxter their herres and assignes
to record and enroll or muse to be recorded and enrolled the title and
tenour of these it'sents, according to the usuall order and matter of recording
and enrolling deeds and evedences in such case made and li'vided in witnes
whereof we the aforesayd Wompatuck called by the English Josiah sachem:
and Squaruck called by the English Daniell and Ababdun Indians : have heere
unto set our hands and sealm the fourth day of July in the yeare of our
Lord God one thousand six hundred sixty and five and fit the seaventeenth
yeare of the raigne of our soveraigne Lord Charles the second by the grace
of God
206 History of Hinghain.
1665. - - -
Signed sealled mid delivered
In the presence of its:
Yen NOEWTHANS ladiall the marke 10 Of (L. 8.) Wor,,,,A~
~lle, marks of W WILLLAM MAN- TuCK called by the
English Justan
ANASTANUT Indian
the marks of 8 ROBERT NIAMUN cheif sachern.
TAHOIN Indian the marks .3 of SQUMUCK (L. S.)
Joust llulz caDed by the Fuglish DANIELL
MATTIAS 9 BRIGGS senile of Chickatabut.
the marke id r ion JUDKINS the mat ke CM of AHAUDEN (L, 9.)
It needs but, a glance at the zMmes of the early settlers Of Hingham, as
given above by Mr. Lincoln, to recognize the founders of some of the most
respectable and influential families of Massachusetts. Few names are more
distinguished ill the annals of the Commonwealth or nation than that of
Cushing. There is reason to believe that Abraham Lincoln was one of the
many descendants from Ifingliain stock who have made it illustrious in
American histor ' y. Noarly all of the names in the foregoing lists are
still familiar in this generation. These first settlers were men of character
and force, of good Englipli blood, whose enterprise and vigor were evident
in tile very spirit of adventure and push which prompted their outset from
the fatherland and their settlement in the new country. Tile), were of
the Puritan order which followed Winthrop raflo~r than of the Pilgrim element
that settled at Plymouth a few vears earlier. The distinction between the
two is now well unders6d. The Pilgrims were Brownists or Separatists later
called Independents, opposed to the national church, insisc ing on separation
from it, and reducing the religious system to the simplest form of independent
church societies.
JNO. L9VERETT, A81.
Indeed it was natural that the spirit that led to reform and
greater simplicity in church methods and organization, which was
the aim of the Puritans, should go still further and dertiand entire
arid indep lidence, which was Separatism, and of which
Sepal 11 0
the = i I histrions type is found in the Pilgrims who sailed in
the 11 Mavflower;' and settled in Plymouth in 1620. It is to be
noticed that those who thus went to the extreme of ecclesiastical
independence were consistent in granting the Rome liberty to others
which they claimed for themselves ; and it is true that the Pil
grims were more tolerant than the Puritans. Lying on the
border-line between the jurisdictions of Plymouth and the Massa.
chusetta Bay, the first settlers of Hingham are not to be too closely
Puritan colony, but from an early day they manifeated a good deal
Farly Settlers. 207
of independence of the Boston magnates ; and Pctor Rolla rt's de
flaut attitude towards (!ON ertior Winthrop is one of the picturesque
features of that carly time. There is sometitiles, undoubtedly, an
inclination. to exaggerate the religious element in the early s~itle
ments of New England. It was a mixed purpose that animated
out- forefathers. There was in them the genius of adventure and
enterprise which in hitor days has peopled our own West Nvith
their descend ants thcre was the seal-ell for fortAille in new coull
tries ON or the son there. was the spirit of trade and mercantile m
vestment ; there was the, hope of new homes, and the ardor of new
scenes, all clusterinIg around what was unquestionably the central
impulse. to finil a larger religious freedom than the restrictions,
legal or traditional, (if the old country afforded. This is cA ident
from the fact that while the population of Massncliw~,ctts grew
rapi(liv by accession" from Eupland till the executiorl of Charles
the First, , re't, as sooll .18 that ovent happened, the republic of
CronlAvvIl and the Supremacy of Puritanism during his Prolee
torato were accomptinied by a practical suspension of immigration
to New EnIgland. For the next two hundred years it had little
other irrowth than that which sprang from its own loins,
Ill those first sctilellwnts the ministers were the lenders. Thoir
Iluciwo was supreme. They gave tone to the time, and color to
hisforY, ; and the communities which they largely nioulded seem,
as wo look back upon them, to he toiled by the eecl"iastical atnios
phere whioli the clergy gavL to them. But with all this there was
still all the tiou, all hurnonse deal Of Iniman nattive. rbe picture
of t1w early timo, if it could be reproduced, would present it bod
' y of
men and women engaged in the ordinary activities Of Me, culti
vating the farms, ploughing the seas, trading with foreign lands
and III I
now, thoinselves, engaged in near and remote fishezies,
lilaintainho, the school, the traiii-band, and the clan-eli, hobliw,
peoplenotwithout lomior,iiotalfog~thor innocent of q niodicuin (I onarrel
and greed -.And heni-t-borliblir, yet warin Nvith the kill([ and neighborly
spirit of a comnion and interdepon4vul; fellowship. The Massachusetts settlers
indtilgod in no incro drealut of foltudilq a Utopia or it Saintn'
Rest. TlaY AN-ere neither % isiolkilrY philosophers nor religion,,, fanof
ics. Their early recorliq deal will, everN.-day detalls of farm Rod lot,
of domi,stic affairs, of straviw, cattle and swine, of runiwity ipprentievs
and scolding wives, of barter with the Indians, of whippim,A awl Storks
and fines for ait sorts of naughtinesses, of bouu(lario~ toul miits, (if
debt and 4-11al process and probate, of electiorv; and pettv offices civil
and military, and now quit then the alqvinu of Avar mid the illovitable
assessment of Oxes. They Smack very much iilore of the concerns, Rod the
common concerns, of this World than of emicern for the next. They are the
rnemorandit of a hard, prav
I
208 History of Hingham.