By provision of A.E.F. regulations, practically all soldiers
were permitted to be absent on leave for the purpose of visit-
ing various parts of France and the allied countries. Special
provision was made to enable as many as possible to visit the
great city of Paris, which is generally acknowledged to be the
most beautiful city in the world. While most every one took advantage
of that opportunity, but few availed themselves of the privilege
of visiting Brussels, the capital of Belgium.
Although, only about one third as large as Paris, either
in population or area, Brussels possesses many charms that are
quite delightful to one who has "done" Paris. In
the latter city one is struck with the symmetry and uniformity
of the buildings; the geometrical order of the planting of trees
and flowers in the gardens and parks. Seldom does one see a park
of natural grass and trees growing as they please. In Brussels,
however, one may see beautiful streets and parks, which retain
somewhat a more natural and rustic appearance which adds a special
charm to the surroundings.
Like all large cities of western Europe, Brussels was once
surrounded by a great wall for protection from her enemies.
At various points were large gates or arches surmounted with
huge towers which alone remain, as the walls have been removed
and their site replaced with a grant boulevard. The growth of
the city has been so great that what was once contained within
the walls, now forms but a small part of its area. Very few of
the avenues or streets are constructed with any uniformity; their
width and direction being changed frequently. Cross streets bisect
the main thoroughfares at all sorts of angles and distances,
so that one must be continually on the alert to keep his bearings.
Neither do the buildings conform to any regular design of architecture,
or uniformity of height, as was so characteristic of the buildings
in Paris.
It was in April, 1919, when I chanced to visit Brussels.
Aside from a detachment of military police, very few American
soldiers were on duty there. English were present in large
numbers as that was the headquarters of one of their divisions.
Belgian soldiers were also much in evidence. In appearance and
actions they were as fine a lot of soldiers as were to be seen
anywhere.
The welcome and consideration one received from the Belgians
was a real pleasure. Free rides on any and all trolley
cars, anywhere in the city was the rule in force for soldiers
in uniform of any allied army. No tips were sought and no resentment
shown if none were given, however, the Belgians were thankful
for any small favors and accepted tips with gratefulness. In
Paris, one was likely to be insulted unless the tip was of sufficient
size to suit their fancy.
For the visitor in Brussels there are many places of interest.
The Royal Palace, seen only from without, is a mansion of
beautiful design. During the war it was in part converted
into a Red Cross Hospital. It was said that the building was
never used or molested by the enemy during that time. The Royal
Stables, near by, and unoccupied at that time, were of a structure
in conformity with the environment. Across the street to the
east was a pretty little park which was accessible to the public
at all times.
Beyond the park were the House of Parliament buildings. We
were shown through the various departments and the
chamber which was of much interest to all was the one in
which was held the trial of Miss Edith Cave', the nurse who was
convicted and later executed as a spy. Throughout the buildings
were many fine and rare paintings that portrayed the historical
features of the Belgian national life. Several of these pictures
had been ruined beyond repair by being punched full of holes
and slit in many places.
From the Parliament buildings we went next to the City Museum,
where were to be seen some of the finest paintings and
statuary in any European gallery. The wonder of all was why
that wonderful collection of art had been left practically untouched
by the departure of the enemy. The only explanation we received
was that the Germans had believed it was to be theirs permanently
where it was, but that when they did evacuate the city there
was no time to remove the collection.
The Cathedrals of which Brussels has several very fine specimens
of the Gothic type, were much like those seen in the
large cities of France, and built in the period when the
construction of that style of architecture was so popular in
France and western Europe. The Bourse, or National Banking House,
was of modern design, massive but artistic in detail. The City
Hall was built in earlier history of the city, and while its
architectural style was typical of the earlier period, yet it
stands as one of the show places of the city. It has an open
square at its front and all the buildings surrounding the square
are somewhat similar in structure and ornamented with gilded
cornices and statuary. The building is used for the city offices
of administration and also as a natural historical museum.
The great pride of the Belgians, however, is the Palais de
Justice. This wonderful structure is built of the finest granite
and
marble and is said to be the large and finest building of
its kind in the world. It is about 150 meters to the top of the
dome and as the buildings stands on ground that is as high as
most of the buildings in the city, it easily stands as the big
landmark, not only of the city but of the country, for many miles
around. To get to the top one must climb stairs the entire distance,
however, one is well repaid for his effort, because of the wonderful
view to be had of the city and surrounding country.
In the dome were relics of the wireless and signal apparatus
used by the Germans, as they used this place for observation
purposes. To the southward about eleven miles there arose
from the horizon a coneshaped mound that marks the site of the
famous Battlefield of Waterloo, where more than 100 years ago
was fought one of the most decisive battles of the world's history.
One finds the Belgians a thrifty, industrious people, quiet
and well mannered. Their homes are neat, the towns clean and
the country-side divided into small, well-tilled farms. The
manufacturing of fine carpets, textiles, linens and laces has
made the country famous. These industries suffered greatly during
the war as many of their best looms and machines were either
removed or destroyed. The fine laces are made by hand and were
to be found in great quantities. Long before peace had been effected,
the Belgians were well on the way of reconstruction and will
be among the first to recover from the effects of war.