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The Janesville Gazette

August 14, 1985; p. 6I, 8I

Janesville, Rock County, Wisconsin

Fashion - Janesville Sesquicentennial
 
[Photograph; caption reads: Maud COMBS poses for her father, who was an Evansville photographer.]
 
City followed national trends
Clothes have been worn for more than 100,000 years as a means of covering and protecting the
body; fashion has always been an indicator of social status.
With the invention of the sewing machine in the 1800s, dramatic changes occurred and manufac-
turers began to make inexpensive ready-to-wear clothes.
Janesville reflected the fashion changes that were to follow.
 
Women's fashions
Tight-waisted, full-skirted gowns became popular during the 1830s and 1840s, and women wore
many petticoats under them. By the 1850s, women wore stiff wire or whalebone petticoats to support their skirts.
By the 1870s, dresses were worn with large bustles in the back and hoops. In the 1880s, a
European designer introduced the first suits for women.
During the 1890s, sportswear became increasingly popular as women became more and more
active. With the turn of the century and the advent of the Edwardian period came the "new woman." The less frilly, feminine look suited businesswomen, even though there were few of them.
By 1910 the "natural" look was introduced by a Paris fashion designer. The full-busted, small waist
and bustle look was beginning to disappear with the removal of the corset. Women could breathe again.
Clothing became simpler and less formal during World War I and by the 1920s, women adopted
the "boyish" look.
With changing styles, especially leisure and sports clothes, parts of women's bodies were gradually
uncovered. Legs were bared in the 1920s, abdomens in the 1940s and thighs in the 1960s. Dresses were straight and unfitted, ending a little above the knee.
Some women began to wear slacks in the 1930s and skirts became longer and then shorter during
the early 1940s.
During World War II, women wore many tailored styles with padded shoulders. In the postwar
period, more colorful and fashionable styles were seen in magazines and on television. Straight, tight- fitting sheath dresses and shorter hemlines gained popularity in the 1950s.
A-line dresses and loose-fitting shifts came into style during the early 1960s. The mini-skirt quickly
spread to other countries following its appearance in England in the mid-1960s.
Bobby socks with saddle oxfords and circle skirts with starched blouses in solid colors were the
style in the '50s.
The 1970s saw a more casual way of life with fewer dresses and more sportswear. With liberated
American women leading active lives, pants suits and sporty slack outfits predominated the clothing scene. With the advent of unisex fashions, women copied men's clothing right down to the vests and neckties.
In the 1980s, clothing manufacturers are mixing patterns within coordinating articles. Anything goes
in skirt and dress lengths - mini or mid-calf. Working women are investing in separates to save money and at the same time get a better fit.
 
Men's fashions
Fashions for men have always changed at a slower pace than for women. Men's clothes continued
to become plainer in the 1800s.
From the late 1800s to about 1910, knee-length frock coats were stylish.
From 1890 to about 1916, shirts with high stiff collars and starched bib fronts were popular. After
the 1900s, shirts with soft, attached collars came onto the fashion scene. The gaucho, a sport shirt of the late 1920s, could be bought in silk, cotton, flannel and rayon.
 
[Two photographs; caption reads: Swimwear styles in the early 1900s were a lot different from the revealing styles of today. Above is the Janesville lifesaving staff in 1927. They patrolled at Goose Island, now Traxler Park. Bottom, a few notables relax after a swin in the early 1900s. From left, Clare BLISS, Harry BLISS, George BLISS, Will RUGER, for whom Ruger Avenue was named, is sitting on the pier.]
 
For half a century, from 1900 to 1950, both single- and double-breasted men's suits were popular.
Shoulders were unpadded around 1910 but gradually became more padded.
Beige was the popular color in the 1920s, and men's clothing no longer seemed to be as formal,
both in style and color.
Double-breasted "zoot" suits with cuffed, wide-legged trousers were introduced in the 1920s.
Since 1960, suits have gotten bigger through the shoulders and trimmer around the waist.
Suede and leather jackets, resembling the bomber jacket, were being worn in California in the
early 1940s. Other popular coats were the Navy pea jacket and the suburban coat - a cross between a topcoat and a sports jacket - appeared in the 1950s.
California designers were the first to create the western look in the 1940s. By the 1950s, many
men switched to single-breasted suits that had narrow lapels and unpadded shoulders. They also began wearing colored shirts with business suits.
Wash-and-wear fabrics became popular during the 1950s and 1960s for both men and women
who wore sportswear.
By 1970, men of all ages joined in the change to colorful clothes. They began wearing shirts in
stripes, checks and many colors with business suits with wide ties in fancy prints, stripes or bright swirling colors. Hairstyles for men became longer.
Hats have always been an essential part of every man's wardrobe. Top hats, derbies and straw
boaters were popular until the 1930s, when fedoras came into fashion.
Hats began to lose their popularity in the 1950s but have been reappearing on the fashion scene
for the past decade. Popular today are the duffel hat, rally or driver's cap and safari hats.
Bow ties and four-in-hand neckties that were popular around 1890, remained stylish until the
1930s when contemporary style shirts became popular.
Contemporary knotted ties came into existence in the 1930s. Heavy silk was the traditional fabric
for men's ties with fashions changing very little. Hand-painted ties were in demand in the 1940s.
Ties became narrow in the 1950s, wider in the 1960s, narrower in the 1970s and of medium
width in the 1980s, as did the width of suit lapels and belts.

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